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Last Post 07 Feb 2016 07:55 PM by  Markwrx
Moving to C Mod an Introduction
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PCalhoun
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28 Nov 2010 12:27 PM

    How to move from Stock or Street Touring to C Mod- An Introduction

    All of us have been there. We've been autocrossing for a number of years, decided this is a hobby we are going to stick with, but can't decide what competition vehicle to purchase next. Yes, we have our dream list, but then reality sets in when you determine that it is cost prohibitive between the cost of the car, insurance, depreciation, performance upgrades, not to mention the cost of DOT competition tires (and it has nothing to-do w/ if there is a R on the side or not).

    For over 40 years Formula Ford has been a mainstay of entry level, open wheel, road racing around the world; including the USA. In SCCA Solo Formula Fords (Formula F as of 2010) slot into C Modified w/ little or no modification from their road racing configuration, as our technical specifications are specified by the SCCA Club Racing General Competition Rules (GCR). The differences, if you choose: no fire bottle, no rear view mirrors, no rain light, and seat belts do not have a life span. Yes, the main differences are literally that simple.

    The cars are mechanically simple, yet stout being that they were purposely built for road racing. No wings or aero to play with, you tune to maximize mechanical grip. Engines are the 1600cc Ford Kent (AKA Cortina GT) pushrod w/ a single Weber DGV downdraft carb pushing out about 110 HP (varies by builders dyno). The motor is of English Ford origin, but has been used all over the world in a number of different applications; including US Pintos and Fiestas. Sometimes it has been referred to as the English "small-block" such was its popularity and durability within the UK specialty car industry, including Cosworth & Lotus applications. The fuel of choice is 110 leaded race gas or low-lead AV gas.

    The '09 Honda Fit motor is legal as of 2010 and conversion kits are being marketed by Honda Performance Development (HPD) for some of the newer chassis. This is not an inexpensive conversion at about $13k in parts alone and would take a long-time to pay for itself in a solo only car. You could get more than a few Kent engine rebuilds for that amount of money and be racing well into the next decade.

    The gearbox is a true racing transaxle designed and manufactured by Hewland. The most popular will be the Mk 9 model, which is a traditional four-speed, h-pattern gearbox, using the VW Beetle magnesium case turned upside down and filled w/ dog-ring engaged racing internals. Newer cars may have a Staffs or Hewland LD200 box. Gears are easily replaceable and available thru a number of sources w/ Taylor Race Engineering being the most popular. The clutch is limited to single disc units; which may be stock (uncommon) or more popular a 7.25" Tilton, AP, or Quartermaster. The rear diff must remain open, but with a light, low horsepower car on slicks it is never needed. Shifts are fast, crisp, and clutch free once you are rolling.

    Brakes are four-wheel disc w/ adjustable bias. Calipers must be cast iron, w/ AP LD-19s being on 95% of cars. Pads are available from all of your favorite suppliers be it Hawk, Ferodo, CarboTech, Porterfield, etc and are cheap. Most compounds being priced $50-75 a set, which will last approx three seasons w/ two-drivers.

    At the moment the Hooser R25B C2500 has become the 'spec' tire for CM- 7" fronts & std FF1600 centelever rears. Good Year has not been producing their R120 compound in a number of years and Avon came, saw, and did not conquer the US FF1600 market about 5-6 years ago. They exited to concentrate on the F2000 market after not being able to come up w/ a suitable rear cantelever tire, which is unique to the American FF market. All cars run on 13x5.5 rims front and rear.

    Now that we have the mechanical basics down what are you looking for...

    The Solo Rulebook lists approved manufacturers for participation in CM. This list was compiled over 17 years ago with a reorganization of the mod classes, but could use some slight updating w/ a letter to the SEB & MAC starting the process. The list, however, will cover 95% of the cars you will see on the open market, which was its original intent. No single make or model has proven dominant at the National level. In general what we are looking for are the "orphan" cars. Those cars too new for club ford (w/ outboard suspension), not competitive in national road racing, or those cars which were deemed uncompetitive by the introduction of the Swift DB1 back in 1983. Formula Ford was huge in SCCA Club Racing throughout the 1970's & 80's and cars are in all corners of the country. The newer pushrod cars from the early 90s on w/ Hewland LD 200 gearboxes do not have the same selection of gears available w/out possibly spending big money on a ring & pinon (CWP) swap and also have longer wheelbases, often over 100+" compared to 96" common in the mid-80s.

    Sports 2000 (S2) sports racers are also elgible for competition in CM. We have not seen any on the national level in a number of years, but Guy Ankeny did win the National Championship in a Tiga SC87 in the late 90's. S2's have a number of significant differences from the open-wheeled FF1600. First, they are powered by a 2.0 OHC motor, which is larger and has a higher center of gravity than the pushrod 1.6, but it does come w/ approx +40 hp. Other key differences are the larger 6"-Front & 8" rear wheels and often a right-hand drive seating position, though right-hand shifting is retained. With the full width sportsracer body S2s are often referred to has "two-man" cars, as they are not easy to work on w/out assistance to remove the nose & tail. but do fit a wider variety of driver sizes with the roomier cockpit. With the additional power, larger wheels & brakes also comes an increase in minimum weight to xxxx#. S2 prices have been climbing the last few years, as many are now accepted by vintage organizations, with clean cars now $25-35k.

    For the more popular FF here are some popular and competitive choices w/ 1983 being a good barometer, as this was the year front & rear in-board suspension cars really took the market by storm:

    Crossle 55+ (used to build all the cars for Skip Barber prior to Mondiale, 30 series are popular Club Fords)
    Lola 640-644 (Michael Andretti ran factory backed cars in US, Charlie Matthews has successfully autocrossed 644 in CenDiv)
    Reynard FF82+ (These cars put Adrian Reynard on the map, great parts availability, large cockpits, driver friendly)
    Van Dieman RF85+ (85 was a Swift copy, which evolved from there, can be tight fit for larger drivers)
    Swift DB1 (most expensive on list, but also most plentiful, can be tight in shoulders for larger drivers)
    Citation 85+ (beautiful cars built in IN w/ support still available from ICP. Peter Raymond/Josh Sirota/Jim Garry car has been very successful)
    and many more choices available...

    Make sure you test fit the car before you buy if possible. If you're 5'8" and 150# you'll fit in anything, but if you're 6'2" and 210# you may need to shop around a little for soemthing which you're comfortable in. Even make a post on ApexSpeed to test fit a similar car locally before traveling. The pedals and steering columns are adjustable, as well as using custom molded bead or foam seats, but cockpit dimensions limiting shoulder room and footbox dimensions can be deal breakers. Don't plan on fitting in the car w/ your running shoes on. You will need a true racing type driving or wrestling shoe to properly operate the closely placed pedals. Size 12 feet and up beware of potential issues and the need for possible modifications, but its Mod you can do that:)

    Prices for complete cars will be $6500 on the low-side to the best of the best Swift DB1s pushing $20k. Purchasing a FF is no different than purchasing any other used car. Look for the cleanest car you can afford, lack of (or properly repaired) crash damage , does it have its logbooks and homologation certificate, does it have maintenance and set-up records, what about a spares package (wheels/gears/etc), is it an owner you feel is trustworthy, etc. With SS starting at $20k for a used C5 ZO6, which hasn't been prepped, and 89 Civics in ST having more in parts then the cost of the car; CM w/ fully-depreciated cars offers not only great performance, but great value.

    The FF community has a very active and helpful group of enthusiasts at www.ApexSpeed.com. Questions are answered honestly, quickly, and without mud-slinging being that they are a more mature and affluent group.

    Do not let parts availability or engine durability scare you, their are numerous resources around the country (world). As mentioned the engine has been used throughout the world and a number of different aftermarket replacement parts have been approved including blocks, heads, cranks, cams, & pistons. The other mechanical parts are often shared w/ production cars (wheel bearings & fuel pumps for example) or are open market performance items (rod ends, spherical bearings, braided hose, etc)

    Here is the start of an essential internet & reading list:

    General:
    www.apexspeed.com
    www.thekentlives.com
    www.carrollsmith.com
    www.eformulacarnews.com

    Cars For Sale:
    www.apexspeed.com
    www.race-cars.com
    www.frcca.com

    Parts:
    www.pegasusautoracing.com (General)
    www.batinc.com (English Ford)
    www.davebean.com (English Ford)
    www.racing-stuff.com (General & Reynard)
    www.hewland.com (Manual & Gear Charts)
    www.taylor-race.com (TRE- Hewland & Driveline)
    www.twodogg.com (TDI- Driveline & Reynard)
    www.porterracing.com (General & Crossle Parts)
    www.iveyengines.com (FF Engine Specialist one of about ten around the country)
    www.hoosiertire.com (Tire Specs)
    www.midatlanticmotorsport.com (Hoosier Tires & Panasport Wheels)
    www.srpengineering.com (Shocks/Hyperco Springs)
    www.formulacars.com (Reynard Parts)
    www.fastforwardracingcomponents.com (Swift & Piper Parts)
    www.primusracing.com (Van Dieman Parts)

    Books:
    Carroll Smith Series (Pocket Engineer is an awesome quick reference guide)
    The Anatomy & Development of the Formula Ford Racecar- Steve Nicholls, history thru early 90's, long out of print & expensive on EBay or Amazon, but a great reference guide to the different manufacturers.
    How to Build & Maintain a Competitive (yet legal) Formula Ford Engine- Jake Lamont & Tom Andresen (available at Pegasus)
    Weber DGV Downdraft Carb Service Manual (many different books on market check out Amazon or Ebay)
    Hewland Mk9 Service Manual (PDF available off Hewland website) including gear charts for 22.5" tire w/ 9:31 or 10:31 R&P

    Maintenance:
    The biggest between event ritual is to-do a nut & bolt of the car to make sure nothing has worked itself loose, as well as a wipe down of dirt & grime. The basics of the car are simple: Plugs 1x/yr ($10), Oil Change 1x/yr ($50-60 w/ synthetic & filter), Gearbox Fluid Red Line Shockproof 1x/yr ($10-12), Fuel 1-1.5 gallon per day w/ two drivers, Bleed Clutch/Brakes 1x/yr ($15), Pack CVs every other season w/ synthetic grease, fuel filter every other season, clean air filter, cap/rotor/wires are good for multiple seasons, as is Pertronix ignition module,
    1x/yr, adjust engine valves 1x/yr. All simple, basic, & affordable.

    Set-Up;
    If you like the science of developing a car to your individual tastes CM is for you. Working off the basic platform you will have more adjustments to fine tune the handling and balance of the car then you ever imagined on your stock class car. Yet, it is all accessible, quick, and easy: alignment- camber, toe, caster, ride height, rake, corner weights, shocks, springs, sway-bars, etc. Don't be intimated, read, ask questions, test, and tune. The cars can be very forgiving, but once you hit that sweet spot you will wonder why you it took so long to see the light of CM affordability vs performance.

    Sound Control:
    An open exhaust FF1600 can blow up to 105db if not properly muffled. Adequate race mufflers are on the market, which will quite the car and not effect performance. My Swift was blowing 88-89db at all national events w/ sound control in 2010, down from 102db in 2009 w/ a straight pipe.

    Transaxle:
    You will require autocross gears for your Hewland transaxle, with first being a fixed-layshaft gear. These gears rarely come up on the used market, but are available from TRE new and may be your largest single initial outlay at approx $450. The second-forth gears are std slide-on ratios and may be purchased new ($207-227), used on ApexSpeed, or traded. Make sure the car you purchase comes w/ some spare gears, as they have real dollar value.

    Tires:
    As mentioned Hoosier has become the defacto spec tire. A complete set runs approx $800 w/ life expectancy dependent on surface, car set-up, and driving style, but 75+ runs per set is not unheard of w/ the current generation Hoosier compound. The tires will heat cycle out before they physically wear out, so for locals if you want to practice car control go for it.

    Dedicated rain tires are available and I have found that most folks go 'dead' sitting in their trailers they are used so infrequently, but for big events it is one of those things you must have at your disposal. I personally get much more use out of having a second set of older mounted slicks for local events, if you are limited in your number of wheels.

    Towing:
    The cars are light, approx 900# empty, combined w/ a small single axle trailer they can be towed by virtually anything. S-10 or Ranger p/u no problem and no need for a big one-ton diesel dually! Tools & support equip go in the back of the truck.

    Insurance:
    Your dedicated racecar will not be covered by your auto or home owners policy and will require specialized insurance if you desire. Storage, Transportation, and Paddock (STP) policies are priced for an agreed upon value and are very affordable at $250/yr from Heacock Insurance. When applying for a policy do not insure for what you purchased the car for, but what it would cost you to replace it. As many of the entry level cars will be worth more in parts. For example if you buy a $6500 car, I would not insure it for less than $10k, $10k car I personally would insure for $15k. It has no effect on the cost of the policy until you get into much higher values. Often your trailer can be added to the policy too, if it is not already on your tow vehicle insurance.

    C Modified....real racecars, real speed, real affordable. Come join the fun, your fellow competitors are here to help the transition.

    Clemens
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    28 Nov 2010 06:43 PM

    Wow, looks like you were in a typing mood, Pete. Nice summary on how to get started in CM!

    Clemens

    t walgamuth
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    28 Nov 2010 08:39 PM

    Yeah!

    I spent a good while poring over that. I am not even 20% through it!

    Great stuff! Thanks very much, Pete!

    BTW I was looking over a Sports Car Illustrated from January of 1961 today and yesterday.....it has a host of wonderful articles, a report on the Monzs F1 race, won by Phil Hill, an article/interview of Phil summarizing his '60 season (It was great but the next year he won the championship), a road test on the Ferrari GT 250 GTE, a wonderful article about a streamliner powered by a Ford Falcon straight six which ran 200 mph at Bonneville and a road test on the '60 English Ford which was powered by the exciting new 996cc Kent Engine which had a bore of about 3" and stroke of less than 2" (later expaned to 1.6 Liters)....and powering thousands of C mod and FF world round!

    PCalhoun
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    28 Nov 2010 09:03 PM
    Clemens wrote:

    Wow, looks like you were in a typing mood, Pete. Nice summary on how to get started in CM!

    Clemens

    I'll admit it was not in one sitting and -Pru- helped w/ some editing and content ideas, but the goal remains the same. Build up CM particpation numbers to what they were about ten years ago w/ a new generation of drivers.

    EWCMR2
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    29 Nov 2010 12:31 AM
    Cool post Pete, makes me want to go out to the garage and rebuild Roberts fuel cell!
    na94
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    30 Nov 2010 04:52 AM
    Excellent post, Pete! I would like to add a couple of things from the perspective of a recent CM convert:


    1) Many maintenance items will require a small amount of machining/fabrication knowledge. If you have access to a lathe and maybe a mill, then great. If not, find a good machinist friendly to car nuts. This will be useful to make bobbins, bushings, and small widgets. Things wear out, and need to be replaced. This is not especially difficult, but you do need to be willing to learn. Be warned that machining is a disease almost as addictive as speed - once you start cutting chips, it will become an addiction. Remember: if something broke, you can not only fix it, but design it better than the last guy.


    2) Learn how to fabricate sheet metal. Learn about different alloys, strain relief, and proper riveting procedures. Many brackets on race cars are made of sheet metal, and it can be quite common for them to fail over time (depending on who made them). Think about stress/strain, load concentration, bending radius, load reversal. You can get by with some good shears and a rubber mallet + 2x4, but access to a hand brake is a bonus. The slickest thing I have ever made was cut on a water jet and bent on a cnc bender - this was for a pretty critical piece, but other things, like my catch tank bracket were cut by hand and drilled and filed, then dollied with a rubber mallet. Solidworks is great for laying out sheet metal parts.


    3) Read, read, read. In addition to the books Pete recommends, I suggest (in this order): Think Fast (forget the author, used to work for Swift), Introduction to Race Car Engineering (Rowley) and Race Car Vehicle Dynamics (Millikens). The Rowley book is really a fine piece of work, and even though it is HUGE, it is only an introduction. Millikens' book is a lot of theory, but it makes you think about some things quite differently.


    4) Don't be afraid to experiment. With a light, stiff chassis, setup changes will have a more profound effect than on a 2500lb sponge of a chassis. You will learn a LOT about car setup and chassis tuning. Combine this with step #3 plus taking the time to make a good kinematic model of your chassis, and you will realize that 90% of people have no clue what they are talking about when it comes to car setup and suspension analysis. That includes some 'professional' race prep shops as well.
    Dick Rasmussen
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    30 Nov 2010 07:52 AM

    Great posts! Obviously I'm sold on CM . . . I've been running my car since 1992 and am currently freshening it for the first time in many years. Other than freshening the engine which was still plenty healthy but "due" and getting the radiators cleaned, "freshening" consists mostly of cleaning, painting the frame (by brush in my garage), and springing for new or replated suspension arms due to 25 years of exposure to the elements on race tracks, autox courses, and about 100K miles of towing on an open trailer.

    FYI, don't be put off by na94's items 1 and 2 unless you are looking for an excuse to do that kind of work. :-) In 18 years I've never machined any parts. The very few repairs or custom parts which have been needed were done very economically by a local race or machine shops. My catch tanks are "color coded" empty plastic oil bottles secured with tie-wraps (learned from the race shop). :-)

    Dick

    CM85

    85 Van Diemen

    GChambers
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    30 Nov 2010 11:36 AM
    You guys rock! Thanks for all the information! Looks like I'll have a busy winter of reading ahead of me.
    t walgamuth
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    06 Dec 2010 06:04 AM
    I had a wonderful time yesterday evening at our unofficial INdy region Kart challange talking with our local growing C MOD mafia. What a wonderful group of enthusiasts! I learned a lot. I am going out east to look at and purchase my new '85 Reynard this weekend.;)
    Markwrx
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    15 Jul 2011 08:48 AM

    Peter, Found this thread while doing research on a Crossle 25F for possible auto cross use. Great info. I know this is a very old car. Do you have an opinion on this idea?

    Mark

    Locked
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    15 Jul 2011 11:04 AM

    I'm not Peter, but I'll share my opinion...

    Mark Lamm was 3rd at Nationals last year in his 1973 Dulon (Crossle nose), I was 5th. Mark also won the Peru Tour last year.




    The older cars may be lacking in aero advancement and suspension geometry to the mid '80s cars, but they are much narrower(4"), and shorter(4").

    This year Mark and I have been driving my '85 Van Diemen. I've yet to be convinced my car is faster than Mark's Dulon. I'm thining both of us would have rather been in the Dulon at the Toledo Tour. It comes down to getting the setup right, and of course driving.

    -- Nick
    CM 187

    Markwrx
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    15 Jul 2011 11:30 AM
    Locked wrote:

    I'm not Peter, but I'll share my opinion...

    Mark Lamm was 3rd at Nationals last year in his 1973 Dulon (Crossle nose), I was 5th. Mark also won the Peru Tour last year.




    The older cars may be lacking in aero advancement and suspension geometry to the mid '80s cars, but they are much narrower(4"), and shorter(4").

    This year Mark and I have been driving my '85 Van Diemen. I've yet to be convinced my car is faster than Mark's Dulon. I'm thining both of us would have rather been in the Dulon at the Toledo Tour. It comes down to getting the setup right, and of course driving.

    -- Nick
    CM 187

    Nick,

    Thanks for the response. That is good news. I am not really worried about being competitive at the national level, mostly just want to have fun. The 25F is still ava.

    Mark

    PCalhoun
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    15 Jul 2011 07:01 PM

    As Nick states preparation and driving can overcome the perceived disadvantages of an older car. When I changed from my 83 Reynard to the Swift it took quite a while until it was on par, just as Nick is experiencing now.

    Crossle is a good starting point. People know them, can point you in the right directions for parts & set-up info; and is club ford eligible for club racing. If it is priced right you won't lose your pants on it if you decide it is not your cup of tea.

    For Crossle advise I would recommend you talk to Neal Porter at Porter Racing in Merced, CA. look in the back of SportsCar or Google for #.

    Markwrx
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    15 Jul 2011 07:07 PM
    PCalhoun wrote:

    As Nick states preparation and driving can overcome the perceived disadvantages of an older car. When I changed from my 83 Reynard to the Swift it took quite a while until it was on par, just as Nick is experiencing now.

    Crossle is a good starting point. People know them, can point you in the right directions for parts & set-up info; and is club ford eligible for club racing. If it is priced right you won't lose your pants on it if you decide it is not your cup of tea.

    For Crossle advise I would recommend you talk to Neal Porter at Porter Racing in Merced, CA. look in the back of SportsCar or Google for #.

    Thanks, Peter. Price is at the bottom end of what they go for, but I have not got all the specifics yet. Does say recent engine rebuild. So what am I going to need in the way of gear change parts to convert this Baby for autoX? And where do I get them?

    Mark

    PCalhoun
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    15 Jul 2011 07:17 PM

    See original post, but long-story short visit www.taylor-race.com or call and talk to Scotty.

    You'll need a Hewland Mk9 Integral Layshaft 1st gear of 12:xx or 13:xx ratio to go w/ a 9:31 R&P. This will be the most expensive part you buy or post a WTB on ApexSpeed.com. Then select your 2nd-4th gears from what comes w/ the car or you can trade too to get the speeds or RPM drop you want.

    Markwrx
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    15 Jul 2011 07:44 PM

    Peter,

    Thanks for the info. I called Porter and got some good info. He even knew about the car I am interested in. Said I would probably need to do a lot of work on the car so should only get it if I can negotiate a really good price.

    Mark

    Markwrx
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    15 Jul 2011 08:24 PM

    What are you Formula Ford guys using for tires for AutoX? I know, Peter said in his origonal post "Hooser R25B C2500 has become the 'spec' tire for CM- 7" fronts & std FF1600 centelever rears" but that isn't enough info for someone not in the know on this.

    Mark

    Dick Rasmussen
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    15 Jul 2011 10:23 PM
    Markwrx wrote:

    What are you Formula Ford guys using for tires for AutoX? I know, Peter said in his origonal post "Hooser R25B C2500 has become the 'spec' tire for CM- 7" fronts & std FF1600 centelever rears" but that isn't enough info for someone not in the know on this.

    Mark

    Actually it is enough info . . . if you contact a Solo oriented Hoosier dealer . . . :-) . Like http://www.midatlanticmotorsport.com/ or https://www.rsracing.com/

    http://www.hoosiertire.com/rrtire.htm

    Afaik the correct tires are still the 25B compound version of:

    item 43162 fronts and 43306 rears.

    Don't get the F1600 version with the same part number. I think it is a harder compound specifically marked for the F1600 Pro road racing series.

    Dick

    CM 85

    85VD


    pru
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    15 Jul 2011 10:36 PM

    Mark,

    Pete is spot on in that the Hoosier R25B, in the noted sizes, is the preferred tire for the CM FF. That is, there is basically no other viable choice for the CM FF since Goodyear stopped making the R120 compound (~6 years ago?).

    Markwrx
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    16 Jul 2011 01:06 AM

    Thanks for the tire info. I looked at an Anson FF this evening. Very cherry car. I would need to get new tires and a trailer(any recommendations?) which mostly puts it out of my price range. Darn!

    Mark

    Dick Rasmussen
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    16 Jul 2011 07:32 AM
    Markwrx wrote:

    Thanks for the tire info. I looked at an Anson FF this evening. Very cherry car. I would need to get new tires and a trailer(any recommendations?) which mostly puts it out of my price range. Darn!

    Mark

    Enclosed versus open trailer? If you have a place to store the car between events an open trailer is viable. That is all I've towed with between Raleigh and a bunch of other places (including Kansas) for many years.

    Dick

    Markwrx
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    16 Jul 2011 10:52 AM
    DickR wrote:
    Markwrx wrote:

    Thanks for the tire info. I looked at an Anson FF this evening. Very cherry car. I would need to get new tires and a trailer(any recommendations?) which mostly puts it out of my price range. Darn!

    Mark

    Enclosed versus open trailer? If you have a place to store the car between events an open trailer is viable. That is all I've towed with between Raleigh and a bunch of other places (including Kansas) for many years.

    Dick

    Dick, Open trailer. I need it light to tow behind a small pickup, and not more than 100 mi. Still working out storage.

    Mark

    Markwrx
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    16 Jul 2011 11:30 AM

    The Anson has inboard shocks front and rear which is very nice and the custom bell housing is a stressed member for the rear suspension. And the engine has less than 2 races on it. It also has driver adj rear sway bar which I suspect is not real useful for autocross(well, maybe between runs for fast adj). Bare with me here guys while I slowly talk myself into $12K plus new tires, a trailer and finding a place to store it. I will post pictures later.

    Mark

    Markwrx
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    16 Jul 2011 05:30 PM

    Pictures of the Anson here. http://markm.zenfolio.com/p765854886

    What do you all think?

    Mark

    PCalhoun
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    17 Jul 2011 08:18 AM

    The Anson has been for sale for quite a while on ApexSpeed and looks like a decent car. Here in lies the problem, it is one of a very small number of cars ever built or imported into the USA, by an extinct manufacturer. Though the principal was a well known F1 engineer. For spares, set-up, advise, and resale you are going to be much better off finding a Reynard, Lola, Crossle or Van Dieman, w/ a Swift being out of your price range.

    Here is the Anson ad on ApexSpeed: http://www.apexspeed.com/forums/sho...=anson+ff. This is where you want to keep your eyes open on cars for sale.

    Markwrx
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    17 Jul 2011 09:43 AM
    PCalhoun wrote:

    The Anson has been for sale for quite a while on ApexSpeed and looks like a decent car. Here in lies the problem, it is one of a very small number of cars ever built or imported into the USA, by an extinct manufacturer. Though the principal was a well known F1 engineer. For spares, set-up, advise, and resale you are going to be much better off finding a Reynard, Lola, Crossle or Van Dieman, w/ a Swift being out of your price range.

    Here is the Anson ad on ApexSpeed: http://www.apexspeed.com/forums/sho...=anson+ff. This is where you want to keep your eyes open on cars for sale.

    Peter,

    Thanks for your response. For autox, what kind of spare parts might we need?

    Mark

    Markwrx
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    17 Jul 2011 09:53 AM
    PCalhoun wrote:

    See original post, but long-story short visit www.taylor-race.com or call and talk to Scotty.

    You'll need a Hewland Mk9 Integral Layshaft 1st gear of 12:xx or 13:xx ratio to go w/ a 9:31 R&P. This will be the most expensive part you buy or post a WTB on ApexSpeed.com. Then select your 2nd-4th gears from what comes w/ the car or you can trade too to get the speeds or RPM drop you want.

    So when it comes to gearing one of these cars for autox, what is the usable power band? Do you set it up to use 2nd and 3rd? What max speed in 2nd? Not questions I have to worry about in my Subie: >)

    Mark

    Markwrx
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    17 Jul 2011 07:34 PM

    I have added pictures of the 73 Crossle which is also in contention, mostly because it is a lot cheaper. It does have about a 7 in shorter wheelbase. http://markm.zenfolio.com/p765854886

    I sure do like the engineering on the Anson.

    Mark

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    17 Jul 2011 08:18 PM
    Another weekend, another defeat by the Dulon...

    Mark, where are you from? And, what did Porter say the Crossle needed?
    Locked
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    17 Jul 2011 08:26 PM
    Markwrx wrote:
    PCalhoun wrote:

    See original post, but long-story short visit www.taylor-race.com or call and talk to Scotty.

    You'll need a Hewland Mk9 Integral Layshaft 1st gear of 12:xx or 13:xx ratio to go w/ a 9:31 R&P. This will be the most expensive part you buy or post a WTB on ApexSpeed.com. Then select your 2nd-4th gears from what comes w/ the car or you can trade too to get the speeds or RPM drop you want.

    So when it comes to gearing one of these cars for autox, what is the usable power band? Do you set it up to use 2nd and 3rd? What max speed in 2nd? Not questions I have to worry about in my Subie: >)

    Mark

    Mark, send an email to nlmyers@gmail.com and I can send you a gear setup excel spreadsheet. It originally came from Calhoun, but I think I remember he lost it in his recent move.

    Typically these cars are geared to 80 mph in 4th. Some guys use a 3 gear setup, and others use a 4 gear setup.

    Dick Rasmussen
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    17 Jul 2011 09:29 PM
    At the very least, per the pictures, the Crossle needs a lot of cosmetic work. Who knows about the brakes, rod ends, etc.

    Dick
    CM 85
    85 VD
    Markwrx
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    17 Jul 2011 09:53 PM
    Locked wrote:
    Another weekend, another defeat by the Dulon...

    Mark, where are you from? And, what did Porter say the Crossle needed?

    I live in Redwood City, CA. Neil said it probably would need work given what he knows about the owner. I could do the cosmetics over time. Cosmetics is definitely a plus for the Anson, as well as engineering details and the suspension. Bruce, the Crossle owner, did say it had an engine rebuild only 2 races ago(in 2004) and he did start it up for me. I am waiting for more info on what went into the rebuild. The brake discs feel pretty smooth and the pads have use left. I am thinking of trailering it directly to Porter and leaving it for a check out and repair.

    Mark

    Markwrx
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    20 Jul 2011 07:06 PM

    There are so many formula Fords ava that I will probably want to get one which will need shipping. Anyone have info how this is done?

    Mark

    PCalhoun
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    20 Jul 2011 09:13 PM

    Yes, I have the electronic gear plotting chart available in Excel. Computer was just packed away for the move when someone was looking for it.

    Mark- If you have started dialouge w/ Neil Porter pick his brain on available cars. He probably has more insight on what is out there in NorCal then anyone.

    Markwrx
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    23 Jul 2011 12:16 AM
    PCalhoun wrote:

    Yes, I have the electronic gear plotting chart available in Excel. Computer was just packed away for the move when someone was looking for it.

    Mark- If you have started dialouge w/ Neil Porter pick his brain on available cars. He probably has more insight on what is out there in NorCal then anyone.

    I got the gear plotter from Nick, thank you. Neil was not aware of anything else for sale in this area. I have worked out a visit to see the 90 VD in Sioux Falls next week.

    Mark

    Sho Torii
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    28 Jul 2011 03:32 PM

    What a great thread! I thank everyone who has contributed to this gem.

    What do you guys think of a Honda motor fitted FF for autocross should I find an affordable one? I personally am much more familiar with fuel-injected motors than a motor with a carburator. Is it the direction where the majority may be heading in the future? If so, it may not be a bad idea to invest in one from the get go providing the price is right. Thoughts?

    Dick Rasmussen
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    28 Jul 2011 06:38 PM
    Have you read any of these threads on Apexspeed forums?

    http://apexspeed.com/forums/forumdi...ysprune=-1

    http://apexspeed.com/forums/showthread.php?t=44347

    FYI once the carb is tuned by a pro engine builder for your engine it really doesn't need fine tuning after that. These are street engines that happen to be in a real race car.
    Locked
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    28 Jul 2011 08:35 PM
    Sho Torii wrote:

    What a great thread! I thank everyone who has contributed to this gem.

    What do you guys think of a Honda motor fitted FF for autocross should I find an affordable one? I personally am much more familiar with fuel-injected motors than a motor with a carburator. Is it the direction where the majority may be heading in the future? If so, it may not be a bad idea to invest in one from the get go providing the price is right. Thoughts?

    Personally, doing a $12k motor swap before any fabrication cost on a car that I bought initially for 1/2 that won't be in my future.

    Sho Torii
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    29 Jul 2011 08:36 AM
    DickR wrote:
    Have you read any of these threads on Apexspeed forums?

    http://apexspeed.com/forums/forumdi...ysprune=-1

    http://apexspeed.com/forums/showthread.php?t=44347

    FYI once the carb is tuned by a pro engine builder for your engine it really doesn't need fine tuning after that. These are street engines that happen to be in a real race car.

    Yes, I've read some of those threads and I found this one:

    http://www.apexspeed.com/forums/showthread.php?t=45522

    Considering a good DB-1 with a Kent goes for around $15,000, I thought a DB-1 with Honda for $20,900 could be a good deal if that's where many might be heading in the future. I guess no one has found out whether the Honda in an autocross application has any advantage over the Kent?

    It's good to know that the carb wouldn't need fine tuning once it's set right by a pro. I was under the imopression that it would need constant fine tuning. Thanks!

    Markwrx
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    01 Aug 2011 08:19 PM

    Thanks to all of you who helped me on the "move". I bought the 90 Van Diemen from Sioux Falls. Should be here next week!

    Mark

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    01 Aug 2011 08:55 PM
    Congrats on the purchase!
    Sho Torii
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    01 Aug 2011 10:59 PM
    Markwrx wrote:

    Thanks to all of you who helped me on the "move". I bought the 90 Van Diemen from Sioux Falls. Should be here next week!

    Mark

    Congrats on your purchase! I was eyeing that car, too.

    Sho Torii
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    04 Aug 2011 08:53 AM
    DickR wrote:

    Enclosed versus open trailer? If you have a place to store the car between events an open trailer is viable. That is all I've towed with between Raleigh and a bunch of other places (including Kansas) for many years.

    Dick

    I have a question for you. Do you cover the car while towing it on an open trailer? If so, what kind of a cover do you use?

    TIA

    Sho Torii
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    04 Aug 2011 08:58 AM
    A question about the engine rebuild. In an autocross only car, how often will the Kent motor have to be rebuilt? And what is the average cost of a rebuild?
    pru
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    04 Aug 2011 12:16 PM
    Sho Torii wrote:
    A question about the engine rebuild. In an autocross only car, how often will the Kent motor have to be rebuilt? And what is the average cost of a rebuild?

    Sho,

    The key to knowing how frequently a specific Kent rebuild is required (and its cost) is knowing what parts make up the engine.

    Over the past 10 years, a number of allowances / parts have been introduced to improve Kent reliability; lightened flywheel, SCAT/SCCA crank, forged pistons, aluminum head, electronic ignition, etc. With an engine that has all of the latest updates, most are budgeting 20 to 30 run time hours between rebuilds (some stretch it to 40 to 50 hours!).

    Looking over my numbers (5 years / 42 events / 218 runs = ~ 240 min / 4 hours), I would say that, on average, you can budget ~1 hour run time per year for a CM FF. To be even more conservative, budget 2 hours a season. That is, a Kent engine, with all of the latest updates and properly driven/maintained, could easily go 10 years between rebuilds!

    All that said, to bring a older Kent engine without any of the latest updates up to spec is going to be the most expensive rebuild (i.e. ~$8000 to $10,000 from a National Level Club Racing engine builder). An up to date engine (with no other major issues), would run in the ~$3000 to $5000 range from the National Level Club Racing engine builder. Cost will be lower if you decide to use local/regional builders (i.e. not specific FF engine shop).

    A couple of ApexSpeed threads as reference:

    Engine freshening?

    Trying to understand operating budget

    Take care,

    Dick Rasmussen
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    04 Aug 2011 01:32 PM
    Sho Torii wrote:
    DickR wrote:

    Enclosed versus open trailer? If you have a place to store the car between events an open trailer is viable. That is all I've towed with between Raleigh and a bunch of other places (including Kansas) for many years.

    Dick

    I have a question for you. Do you cover the car while towing it on an open trailer? If so, what kind of a cover do you use?

    TIA

    No. I've seen one very high bucks BMod that was covered while towing into the paddock but it was a very custom cover. The car was from California and probably didn't go out in the rain much.

    I use relatively simple home made stuff to keep water out of the air intake and the dash. Everything else is protected by the bodywork or gets soaked in heavy rain.

    For overnight stops I use a 9 x 12 blue tarp with carefully placed "tarp bungees" and "girth strap" to secure the tarp.

    For really long tows I have home made tire covers and may upgrade to modified off the shelf "junior dragster" covers. This is just to keep the uv and moving air off the rubber. The competition tires are in the tow vehicle for those trips.

    Dick Rasmussen
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    04 Aug 2011 02:01 PM
    Sho Torii wrote:
    A question about the engine rebuild. In an autocross only car, how often will the Kent motor have to be rebuilt? And what is the average cost of a rebuild?

    Keep in mind that a lot of what Pru mentioned is mostly road racing durability stuff and maybe that last tiny bit of HP the road racers need. Electronic ignition (points eliminator is all we can do) is not needed if you learn how to change points every year or two. I don't know how much HP the aluminum head provides at what rpm. Weight saving may be the biggest advantage. As he said an engine that starts it autox life healthy will stay that way a long time. You can budget for the "rebuild/upgrade" after you determine you like the class and decide the level of competition that fits your life/budget.

    FYI Nick's (Locked) car is pretty darn FAST and I think all they did with the engine was freshen the iron head. I assume a lightened flywheel and "racing" clutch. Don't know about the carb. For many years I ran my Ivey prepared carb (from Pegasus) without even dynoing it on my engine to optimize jetting. One or two jets were changed slightly this winter when this engine was dyno'd.

    Sho Torii
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    04 Aug 2011 02:15 PM
    pru wrote:

    Sho,

    The key to knowing how frequently a specific Kent rebuild is required (and its cost) is knowing what parts make up the engine.

    Over the past 10 years, a number of allowances / parts have been introduced to improve Kent reliability; lightened flywheel, SCAT/SCCA crank, forged pistons, aluminum head, electronic ignition, etc. With an engine that has all of the latest updates, most are budgeting 20 to 30 run time hours between rebuilds (some stretch it to 40 to 50 hours!).

    Looking over my numbers (5 years / 42 events / 218 runs = ~ 240 min / 4 hours), I would say that, on average, you can budget ~1 hour run time per year for a CM FF. To be even more conservative, budget 2 hours a season. That is, a Kent engine, with all of the latest updates and properly driven/maintained, could easily go 10 years between rebuilds!

    All that said, to bring a older Kent engine without any of the latest updates up to spec is going to be the most expensive rebuild (i.e. ~$8000 to $10,000 from a National Level Club Racing engine builder). An up to date engine (with no other major issues), would run in the ~$3000 to $5000 range from the National Level Club Racing engine builder. Cost will be lower if you decide to use local/regional builders (i.e. not specific FF engine shop).

    A couple of ApexSpeed threads as reference:

    Engine freshening?

    Trying to understand operating budget

    Take care,

    pru,

    Thank you very much for the invaluable information! I've pored over your post and the threads that you referred to. I can now understand and appreciate the wide variance in asking prices for cars seem similar to an untrained eye.

    Sho

    Sho Torii
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    04 Aug 2011 02:21 PM
    DickR wrote:

    No. I've seen one very high bucks BMod that was covered while towing into the paddock but it was a very custom cover. The car was from California and probably didn't go out in the rain much.

    I use relatively simple home made stuff to keep water out of the air intake and the dash. Everything else is protected by the bodywork or gets soaked in heavy rain.

    For overnight stops I use a 9 x 12 blue tarp with carefully placed "tarp bungees" and "girth strap" to secure the tarp.

    For really long tows I have home made tire covers and may upgrade to modified off the shelf "junior dragster" covers. This is just to keep the uv and moving air off the rubber. The competition tires are in the tow vehicle for those trips.

    Dick,

    Thanks for the info. I was thinking about long hauls such as the trip to/from Nationals (1,400 miles each way for me). Do you happen to have pics of your "home made stuff" to keep water out of intake and dash?

    Dick Rasmussen
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    04 Aug 2011 02:35 PM
    Sho Torii wrote:
    DickR wrote:

    No. I've seen one very high bucks BMod that was covered while towing into the paddock but it was a very custom cover. The car was from California and probably didn't go out in the rain much.

    I use relatively simple home made stuff to keep water out of the air intake and the dash. Everything else is protected by the bodywork or gets soaked in heavy rain.

    For overnight stops I use a 9 x 12 blue tarp with carefully placed "tarp bungees" and "girth strap" to secure the tarp.

    For really long tows I have home made tire covers and may upgrade to modified off the shelf "junior dragster" covers. This is just to keep the uv and moving air off the rubber. The competition tires are in the tow vehicle for those trips.

    Dick,

    Thanks for the info. I was thinking about long hauls such as the trip to/from Nationals (1,400 miles each way for me). Do you happen to have pics of your "home made stuff" to keep water out of intake and dash?

    I have pics at home but they are very "85 Van Diemen" specific.

    The "dash cover" is a red plastic paint bucket from Ace Hardware cut and trimmed to slide over the steering shaft and fit between the top of the front roll hoop and the underside of the front bodywork/windshield. The air inlet cover is too complicated to describe with words but is VERY car specific. Fabrication used a drill and hacksaw plus screw driver/wrench, etc. Many guys just secure plastic bags over the inlet. Also, until I attached a SuperTrapp, I stuck a racket ball up the tail pipe to keep water out of the exhaust. Blew it across the paddock once or twice on first start at an event . . .


    Locked
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    04 Aug 2011 03:04 PM
    DickR wrote:

    FYI Nick's (Locked) car is pretty darn FAST and I think all they did with the engine was freshen the iron head. I assume a lightened flywheel and "racing" clutch. Don't know about the carb. For many years I ran my Ivey prepared carb (from Pegasus) without even dynoing it on my engine to optimize jetting. One or two jets were changed slightly this winter when this engine was dyno'd.

    If by freshen you mean going from gray/white/lime green to black... :)


    We did lap the valves...

    I'd like to get it on the dyno to optimize the jets.. I haven't done that because I don't want to know if I'm down on power. My racing budget is being spent on racing. Not rebuilding the motor. So there's no point in knowing. :)

    Dick Rasmussen
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    04 Aug 2011 05:54 PM
    Nick,

    Hmmm. I guess going FROM "fresh lime green" TO "dead black" can't really be called "freshening" even though you lapped the valves. :-)

    Since I don't have the time this year to actually race much I've been spending my racing budget on getting the car ready for the future. :-)

    Problem is I'll have fewer "excuses" for when you guys beat me.

    Dick
    Markwrx
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    05 Aug 2011 07:28 PM

    Ok, the FF is on the way. Now I need some tools. I saw a mechanical jack which would fit under the FF and cannot find one anywhere. Can anyone help?

    Mark

    Clemens
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    05 Aug 2011 08:57 PM

    Mark,

    Pegasus is the only place that I know sells new ones:

    http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...?RecID=872

    You might be able to find a used jack on Apexspeed.

    Clemens

    pru
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    05 Aug 2011 09:28 PM
    Clemens wrote:

    You might be able to find a used jack on Apexspeed.

    Here are a couple of links from ApexSpeed:

    Quicklifts and chassis stands

    Garage sale

    As Clemens noted, you could also make WTB post.

    Sho Torii
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    05 Aug 2011 09:57 PM
    I didn't think of the needs for new tools that come with moving to CM from CSP. In addition to the jack and jack stands, I assume most of the tools will be in SAE instead of metric? I may have to buy a bunch of sockets and wrenches to accommodate the move.
    Markwrx
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    06 Aug 2011 11:22 PM

    Ok, now I have a trailer, a really nice white one(matching my car) and at a great price. I just need to get it registered in CA after not being current for 13 yrs, and it needs new tires. Once I get confirmation the car is on the transport truck(on the 11th or 12th), I will order the new Hoosiers and break out the champaign : >)

    Mark

    adhowe70
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    06 Aug 2011 11:40 PM

    Sho,

    I think the need for SAE vs. Metric will vary by chassis and year. My 82 Reynard is virtually all SAE. I suspect a car with a late model LD200 transaxle might be using metric fasteners. Similarly, a Mygale chassis likely uses all metric bits on the chassis. Engine... unless you swap to the Fit, you'll be using SAE tools.

    Andy

    Markwrx
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    06 Aug 2011 11:46 PM
    I sure hope I don't need any Wintworth(sp) tools.
    Mark
    Dick Rasmussen
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    07 Aug 2011 07:08 AM
    Markwrx wrote:
    I sure hope I don't need any Wintworth(sp) tools.
    Mark

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Britis..._Whitworth

    None in my 85 VD.

    I use a small floor jack at home. Under a horizontal bar in the nose area and under the transaxle in the rear. For tire changes at major events I use a small scissor jack one at a time at each corner. I don't have room to carry a quick lift. Obviously for fast tire changes a quick lift is much better.

    Jack stands at home are 6"X6" timbers supplemented by small 2"X4"s if I need a little height for some reason. If/when the engine ever needs to come out, small "$10 harbor freight" furniture dollies can support the engine so it will roll out from between frame rails. Ditto for transaxle.

    Fasteners are all SAE (I found getting AN grade through Pegasus is the easiest way to get the right size at a reasonable price). Buy Carroll Smith's fastener book to learn about hardware. Pegasus includes details on the grip length which is critical to proper sizing of an AN bolt. http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...roduct=AN5

    FYI "AN" is aircraft grade high quality. Sizes are SAE. For our use they "last forever".

    The Mk9 transaxle is a mixture of SAE and Metric.

    Most bolt/nut sizes are small so you won't need many new tools. I changed front and rear springs yesterday using a 1/2 inch socket, 1/2 inch open, 7/16 open, and a couple of SAE allen wrenches. Just watch for a Sears/Craftsman sale on sets.

    Oh, and my center lock wheels use a big socket since the nuts are 3/4 inch AN.

    There are two special tools. A 17mm big allen wrench for the Mk 9 Hewland oil plug or this: http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...RecID=6299

    A special wrench for the engine head bolts for retorquing the head http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...RecID=840. Assuming you don't pull the head yourself, this is done "maybe" after the engine overhauls you may need every 5 - 10 years.

    Trailer tires are critical. Replace every 3 -4 years. Buy trailer rated with a high load rating (load range C I think). Inflate to the max recommended since it is also apparently the minimum recommended of typically 50 psi. They normally "age out" long before they wear out. Check pressure frequently since under inflation kills them. Carry a new spare also. I've never had a trailer tire blow on the road (good thing since I have an open single axle trailer) but I did have an older SPARE literally blow a section of tread off sitting in my driveway on a hot day.

    Dick

    CM since 1992


    rrobb
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    08 Aug 2011 10:04 AM
    +1 on checking your trailer tires frequently. There used to be a thread on Apexspeed about crazy racing stories. About one in ten was actually something that happened on the race track, the rest were towing disasters.
    Sho Torii
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    08 Aug 2011 10:53 AM

    Dick,

    Thank you very much for the information. I have added the 17mm drain plug socket and FF head bolt socket along with Carroll Smith's book on my ever-growing shopping list. I just bought Jim Garry's 85 Citation. I went to see it yesterday and fell in love with it. What a great car, what a great guy! I will pick it up after Nationals. Can't wait!

    pru
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    08 Aug 2011 11:08 AM
    Sho Torii wrote:

    I just bought Jim Garry's 85 Citation. I went to see it yesterday and fell in love with it. What a great car, what a great guy! I will pick it up after Nationals. Can't wait!

    Sho,

    Congrats on the purchase! Welcome to the class!

    Jim G
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    08 Aug 2011 01:02 PM

    Thanks very much for the kind words Sho. It was great to meet you and Keiko. Before you buy anything else for your new car please hold off until you pick up the car. You'll be getting lots of stuff. Smile

    Jim

    Dick Rasmussen
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    08 Aug 2011 01:19 PM
    Sho Torii wrote:

    I went to see it yesterday and fell in love with it. Can't wait!

    Sho,

    Your reaction to a yellow formula ford is exactly the same as when my wife and I first saw our yellow ff in the seller's driveway in Atlanta . . . 20 years ago. The car was "sold" in our minds immediately. Fortunately yours is actually "ready to race". Ours needed a ground up . . . but we didn't know that at the time. Still glad we bought it!!!!

    You are welcome on the hints, etc. Isn't that what "veteran racers" are "good for" ?

    Dick

    Clemens
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    08 Aug 2011 03:15 PM
    Jim G wrote:

    Thanks very much for the kind words Sho. It was great to meet you and Keiko. Before you buy anything else for your new car please hold off until you pick up the car. You'll be getting lots of stuff. Smile

    Jim

    Jim,

    Are you moving up to BM? Smile

    Clemens

    Jim G
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    08 Aug 2011 09:36 PM
    Clemens wrote: Jim,

    Are you moving up to BM? Smile

    Clemens

    Well if I was, I wouldn't say I was moving "up", unless you mean that purely from an alphabetic perspective. I'd say I was moving to a new class. :-)

    GChambers
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    09 Aug 2011 02:20 PM
    Sho, congrads on the purchase. Yes, that car is gorgeous. You're going to have a ball with it. I look forward to seeing you in grid.
    Sho Torii
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    09 Aug 2011 02:55 PM

    Thank you, everyone, for the kind words. I'm really excited about moving to CM. To be honest, Jim's car is at much higher level than my current skill level and the price was more than I wanted to spend. However, I figured that it was a once-in-lifetime opportunity to own a car with a pedigree like that and decided to go for it. Of course, by talking to Jim, I could feel his pure love and passion for the car and it made me absolutely confident that it was a good purchase. Now, I will have to work real hard on my driving skills to not embarrasse the car and its legacy.

    Geoff,

    Knowing your recent move from STS Miata to CM, I wanted to talk to you when I was at Toledo last month. Unfortunately, I couldn't find the time to do so between running in open CSP and taking care of my wife when she ran in CSPL. Since you're steps ahead of me, I know I can learn a great deal from your experience. I know I will be asking you a lot of questions. Hope you won't mind.

    Locked
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    09 Aug 2011 03:24 PM
    Clemens wrote:

    Jim,

    Are you moving up to BM? Smile

    Clemens

    Clemens, When are you moving "down" to CM?

    Sho, Welcome!

    Jim, Sorry to see you go! I'll enjoy competing against you in Lincoln.

    GChambers
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    09 Aug 2011 06:43 PM
    Sho Torii wrote:

    Geoff,

    Knowing your recent move from STS Miata to CM, I wanted to talk to you when I was at Toledo last month. Unfortunately, I couldn't find the time to do so between running in open CSP and taking care of my wife when she ran in CSPL. Since you're steps ahead of me, I know I can learn a great deal from your experience. I know I will be asking you a lot of questions. Hope you won't mind.

    Not at all. I look forward to it. My email is autox at comcast dot net. Nick (Locked) came from STU and I'm certain that he can offer assistance that I can't. I'm guessing he won't mind helping you along as well.

    Clemens
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    09 Aug 2011 07:39 PM
    Locked wrote:
    Clemens wrote:

    Jim,

    Are you moving up to BM? Smile

    Clemens

    Clemens, When are you moving "down" to CM?


    Nick, I don't like moving down. Besides, have you seen the growth in BM? Over 50% increase in entries at Nationals this year. Who knows what's coming next year. I can't leave that class! Besides besides, I don't want to give up what I am driving. People have called me crazy before, but I am not that crazy.

    Clemens

    Locked
    Basic Member
    Basic Member
    Posts:493


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    09 Aug 2011 09:06 PM
    Run BM nationally where you have cars to run against... Run CM locally, where you'd have cars to compete against. And with very few tweaks you already have a FF in your garage.

    I, as well would not stop driving the LeGrand either.

    Markwrx
    Basic Member
    Basic Member
    Posts:247


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    17 Aug 2011 11:59 AM

    My Van Diemen is finally on a truck headed this way(West). Should be here by Fri. Ya! I ordered new tires for the trailer and got it through DMV. I also ordered tires for the VD. I am shooting for a local event on Aug 28th for the debut.

    Quite a list of participants in CM for nationals.

    Mark

    Locked
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    17 Aug 2011 02:01 PM
    We'll expect post debut commentary. :)
    Markwrx
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    17 Aug 2011 11:07 PM
    Locked wrote:
    We'll expect post debut commentary. :)

    For sure!

    Markwrx
    Basic Member
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    24 Aug 2011 11:32 PM

    The Van Diemen is in my driveway, ready to drive on Sunday, Sunday, Sunday...

    You all have a great time at Nationals!

    Mark

    GChambers
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    25 Aug 2011 05:54 PM
    Awesome. I'll be looking forward to your update.
    Markwrx
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    29 Aug 2011 11:08 AM

    Ok. I am sold. The Van Diemen worked great. On our most uneven lot the suspension soaked it all up and the power was excellent. My co driver got TTOD, 2 sec ahead of #2, me. I did have some minor problems. Internal battery either was not charged or does not hold a charge and I need a hand full of the screw twist body panel retainers(what are those called?), I even lost a body panel(fortunately at very low speed). I have a sore spot on my lower outer thigh and we were moving around too much in the cockpit. Here are a few pictures. http://markm.zenfolio.com/p547297803 2-3 weeks until the next SCCA event, lots of time to get things fixed. Many people were interested in the car and several asked about where to find them and how much.

    Mark

    Locked
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    29 Aug 2011 11:41 AM

    On the pre-race checklist.. Charge on board battery.

    Those are dzus fasteners..

    Dick Rasmussen
    Advanced Member
    Advanced Member
    Posts:931


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    29 Aug 2011 12:17 PM

    I see lots of big grins! Welcome to CM!

    What site was that? I think you are in the SF area. I got my start in SF, mostly at Pleasanton.

    If the battery is more than a few years old you may need to spring for a new one. Lots of advice on ApexSpeed.

    Dick

    CM 85 - wishing I was in Lincoln!!! Hopefully next year.

    GChambers
    Veteran Member
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    Posts:1928


    --
    29 Aug 2011 03:12 PM

    There's a bolt on my shifter that sticks into my thigh. I should have replaced it by now. :-) You may want to check that.

    I'm happy to hear you like the car.

    GChambers
    Veteran Member
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    Posts:1928


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    29 Aug 2011 03:12 PM
    Edit: Double post. This website sucks.
    GChambers
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    29 Aug 2011 03:20 PM
    Markwrx
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    29 Aug 2011 04:49 PM

    We did a little work on the car this morning. I got in it and found that the problem w/ my thigh was a metal vent tube for the fire system. I was able to bend it around and out of the way toward the shift lever. We pulled the battery(what a lot of work) and are getting it charged to see if it is worth saving. Turns out that even though they are "sealed", they loose water.

    Mark

    Markwrx
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    29 Aug 2011 04:51 PM
    DickR wrote:

    I see lots of big grins! Welcome to CM!

    What site was that? I think you are in the SF area. I got my start in SF, mostly at Pleasanton.

    If the battery is more than a few years old you may need to spring for a new one. Lots of advice on ApexSpeed.

    Dick

    CM 85 - wishing I was in Lincoln!!! Hopefully next year.

    That lot is at Great America in Santa Clara. Unfortunately, the new 49ers stadium will be built there.

    Mark

    Markwrx
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    29 Aug 2011 07:56 PM

    Anyone know if a full face shield helmet is required for autox with FFs?

    Mark

    barryott
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    Posts:63


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    29 Aug 2011 08:21 PM
    I looked and looked but couldn't find a rule. I thought there was but.... Anyway, regardless of a rule, it's a good idea, stuff flies off the front wheels, I've been hit in the face (helmet) more than once :-)

    Barry
    Dick Rasmussen
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    29 Aug 2011 09:36 PM
    barryott wrote:
    I looked and looked but couldn't find a rule. I thought there was but.... Anyway, regardless of a rule, it's a good idea, stuff flies off the front wheels, I've been hit in the face (helmet) more than once :-)

    Barry

    Ditto. I don't even like to drive slowly without my shield down, let alone at speed. Eyes and/or glasses are too valuable. Goggles would protect eyes but not the rest of your face. Wait until you run in the wet, even in California!

    Wow on Great America. I used to live in Santa Clara and then Milpitas. Too bad it is going away. Of course, in those days the Alameda County Fairgrounds in Pleasanton was a great site and it was 20 minutes from my house in Milpitas.

    Dick


    Markwrx
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    30 Aug 2011 11:00 AM
    barryott wrote:
    I looked and looked but couldn't find a rule. I thought there was but.... Anyway, regardless of a rule, it's a good idea, stuff flies off the front wheels, I've been hit in the face (helmet) more than once :-)

    Barry

    I did notice things flying off the front wheels especially on the way to grid when I made turns. Later I had to sweep out my seat :>)

    I watched a road race video posted on the BM forum. How dull. FF's are waisted on road racing. They were "made" for autocross.

    Mark

    Markwrx
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    30 Aug 2011 11:37 PM

    So, now that I have taken the big step and own a FF, I am counting on all of you to answer my questions:>)

    How do I tell how much fuel is in the "Tank"/fuel cell? It would be pretty embarrassing to run out of fuel on the course.

    Mark

    Dick Rasmussen
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    31 Aug 2011 07:51 AM
    Markwrx wrote:

    So, now that I have taken the big step and own a FF, I am counting on all of you to answer my questions:>)

    How do I tell how much fuel is in the "Tank"/fuel cell? It would be pretty embarrassing to run out of fuel on the course.

    Mark

    "Dip stick". Seriously. Wooden stick if you have a straight shot, fuel hose if a bend is necessary. Thin wall pvc with holes and rounded end cap as a "tube" through the foam. I use a "calibrated" length of black fuel hose. Calibrated by adding one gallon of fuel at a time and securing a black tywrap as the marker. Wet fuel contrasts well with the dull black hose. My hose lives in the cell.

    I'm sure when the other guys like Nick get home from Nats that they will chime in with their solutions. You might ask the question again then. Also check ApexSpeed. The only problem with ApexSpeed is that there are far too many posts from me. Getting to be the same here. <grin>.

    Dick

    syrarch04
    New Member
    New Member
    Posts:6


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    01 Sep 2011 05:18 PM
    Here's a good thread on ApexSpeed (thanks in part to Dick) about figuring out fuel level:

    http://www.apexspeed.com/forums/sho...fuel+level

    I think that's going to be one of my (on a growing list of) winter projects. My car is new to me this year and I've tried to play it safe with fuel and put in at least a few gallons before each event. It's only run dry once, and it happened while Jim Garry was taking it for a spin. Sorry Jim!

    GChambers
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    01 Sep 2011 08:39 PM
    Markwrx wrote: It is pretty embarrassing to run out of fuel on the course.

    Mark

    Yep, it is. Ask me how I know. :-)

    Markwrx
    Basic Member
    Basic Member
    Posts:247


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    04 Sep 2011 03:24 PM

    Ok, Dipstick it is. I do like this solution but understand the safety issue. http://www.pdm-racing.com/products/imag/pdmcan3-large.jpg

    Mark

    Locked
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    Posts:493


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    05 Sep 2011 07:58 PM
    DickR wrote:
    I'm sure when the other guys like Nick get home from Nats that they will chime in with their solutions. You might ask the question again then. Also check ApexSpeed. The only problem with ApexSpeed is that there are far too many posts from me. Getting to be the same here. .

    Dick

    We have a straight shot, so we have a stick.. We drained the cell, then added to the base of the pickup. Empty is not dry, empty is a bit above dry. Then we added 3 gallons in 1 gallon increments and marked the stick.

    Markwrx
    Basic Member
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    Posts:247


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    11 Sep 2011 02:50 PM

    I got in 9 runs yesterday on a short course. I think I am going to enjoy learning to use the power on over steer. The car is so forgiving that I will need more seat time to figure out how to use it well. My best time was only 1.3 sec behind the biggest and baddest Corvettes! There was a 83 Van Diemen at the event. Both drivers were about .3 sec faster than I was. Can't wait for the next event.

    Mark

    Dick Rasmussen
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    11 Sep 2011 09:35 PM
    CM is addictive!

    I finally got out for my second event this year. Always FUN (in nice weather which it was). Reminds me of the good old days when I ran tons of events per year.

    Dick
    GChambers
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    11 Sep 2011 09:46 PM
    We had 8 drivers in CM and one in CML today in Indy. Good times. Close racing!
    Markwrx
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    Posts:247


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    11 Sep 2011 11:11 PM
    GChambers wrote:
    We had 8 drivers in CM and one in CML today in Indy. Good times. Close racing!

    We were just counting and came up w/ 9 drivers and 5 cars on the whole west coast. You guys have a great group. Any suggestions as to how I can generate more interest here in SF region? Recently I have been saying "you can try to make a street car a better autocrosser, or you can do a lot less work making a road race car a great autocrosser".

    Mark

    Markwrx
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    11 Sep 2011 11:19 PM
    DickR wrote:
    CM is addictive!

    I finally got out for my second event this year. Always FUN (in nice weather which it was). Reminds me of the good old days when I ran tons of events per year.

    Dick

    Dick,

    Only 2 events this year? What is going on?

    Mark

    adhowe70
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    Posts:770


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    12 Sep 2011 12:18 AM

    Mark,

    There's more than 5 cars on the West Coast. We have 3 in the Northwest (myself, Marich, and Billings) and I know there are two in SoCal (Schillings and Puertas/Clements). Whatever you have in SFR is gravy on top of those 5. What we need is folks to travel more... 6 or 7 cars spread out over 1300 miles makes for a boring regional season.

    When SFR has a top notch site back, you'll see me there from time to time.

    Andy

    Dick Rasmussen
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    12 Sep 2011 08:01 AM
    Markwrx wrote:

    Dick,

    Only 2 events this year? What is going on?

    Mark

    Mark,

    "Life changed" in mid 2002 and autocrossing became low priority after 3 decades of HIGH priority. I'm hoping for 3 more events this year. After October I'm done until Spring. Slicks are no fun below about 60F. Does SFR still run the "Winter Slush Series" including the "Rubber Chicken Memorial Endurocross"? That was a great short series when I ran SFR events from the mid 70's to the mid 80's.

    I've been preparing the car including fresh engine and suspension bits and fancy DA and video for an active 2012 season including Nats if things go as planned.

    Dick

    Robert Puertas
    Advanced Member
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    Posts:761


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    12 Sep 2011 10:11 AM
    adhowe70 wrote:

    Mark,

    There's more than 5 cars on the West Coast. We have 3 in the Northwest (myself, Marich, and Billings) and I know there are two in SoCal (Schillings and Puertas/Clements). Whatever you have in SFR is gravy on top of those 5. What we need is folks to travel more... 6 or 7 cars spread out over 1300 miles makes for a boring regional season.

    When SFR has a top notch site back, you'll see me there from time to time.

    Andy

    Plus, Ben Martinez has been posting that he's shopping for a car, and Eric and I have talked to a few others in SoCal who are interested...

    Next year should be interesting!

    Markwrx
    Basic Member
    Basic Member
    Posts:247


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    12 Sep 2011 10:49 AM
    DickR wrote:

    Mark,

    "Life changed" in mid 2002 and autocrossing became low priority after 3 decades of HIGH priority. I'm hoping for 3 more events this year. After October I'm done until Spring. Slicks are no fun below about 60F. Does SFR still run the "Winter Slush Series" including the "Rubber Chicken Memorial Endurocross"? That was a great short series when I ran SFR events from the mid 70's to the mid 80's.

    I've been preparing the car including fresh engine and suspension bits and fancy DA and video for an active 2012 season including Nats if things go as planned.

    Dick

    Yes we do the Slush series. The Sacramento branch does the Memorial Endurocross, last wkend of Sept.

    Good to hear that you are still in the game.

    Mark

    Markwrx
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    --
    12 Sep 2011 11:02 AM
    Robert Puertas wrote:
    adhowe70 wrote:

    Mark,

    There's more than 5 cars on the West Coast. We have 3 in the Northwest (myself, Marich, and Billings) and I know there are two in SoCal (Schillings and Puertas/Clements). Whatever you have in SFR is gravy on top of those 5. What we need is folks to travel more... 6 or 7 cars spread out over 1300 miles makes for a boring regional season.

    When SFR has a top notch site back, you'll see me there from time to time.

    Andy

    Plus, Ben Martinez has been posting that he's shopping for a car, and Eric and I have talked to a few others in SoCal who are interested...

    Next year should be interesting!


    Andy and Robert,


    It was Ben I was referring to when I said we did a count. Thanks for the accurate count. Now we need to work on getting together.


    Ben is considering a FF as an exit stratagy from DSP depending on what happens with E46 BMWs. I have set up an event for him to try my car. That should chinch his transition:>)


    Mark

    Dick Rasmussen
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    12 Sep 2011 12:51 PM
    The "toughest" part of running CM or other open wheel mod class is the "What is it, what engine, how fast will it go, I want one, etc." comments. Not to mention all the stares and thumbs up you get if you tow with an open trailer like we do.

    Like any race car on an open trailer you have to be prepared for being "paced" for a little while by "lookie Lous".

    Dick
    Locked
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    --
    12 Sep 2011 02:00 PM
    Markwrx wrote:
    GChambers wrote:
    We had 8 drivers in CM and one in CML today in Indy. Good times. Close racing!

    We were just counting and came up w/ 9 drivers and 5 cars on the whole west coast. You guys have a great group. Any suggestions as to how I can generate more interest here in SF region? Recently I have been saying "you can try to make a street car a better autocrosser, or you can do a lot less work making a road race car a great autocrosser".

    Mark

    Just find ways to let the people asking the questions drive the car.

    Markwrx
    Basic Member
    Basic Member
    Posts:247


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    12 Sep 2011 02:42 PM
    DickR wrote:
    The "toughest" part of running CM or other open wheel mod class is the "What is it, what engine, how fast will it go, I want one, etc." comments. Not to mention all the stares and thumbs up you get if you tow with an open trailer like we do.

    Like any race car on an open trailer you have to be prepared for being "paced" for a little while by "lookie Lous".

    Dick

    I also have an open trailer and on the way home Sat I had a young motorcyclist slow down on my left and give me a thumbs up.

    Mark

    adhowe70
    Advanced Member
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    12 Sep 2011 11:48 PM
    I had a regional guy who is neck deep in STR ask to take my car for a spin. His rationale was "I've never driven a real racecar before." He raced Spec Miata for a couple seasons, so he clearly meant a purpose built car rather than a GCR car. He took a few runs on one of our practice days and it was clear that he liked it. A lot. I don't know that he'll convert, but he'll remember it for a long time.

    I've been working on a few folks in the northwest, too. One of them has a conditional offer out on a car... I'll probably make another trip to Packwood here in two weeks and put him and his wife in the car and set the hook firmly. Anyone that is leaning towards the class at all can be convinced with just a few runs. That's how I got hooked. :-)

    Andy
    Markwrx
    Basic Member
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    13 Sep 2011 07:01 PM

    Yes, get them in the car. Chris Boynton(a very good driver) drove my car at its debut event and he has been after me for another outing.

    Mark

    Sho Torii
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    14 Sep 2011 09:45 AM
    I'm picking up the 85 Citation tomorrow. Really excited! We'll pour a seat and make other adjustments in this weekend and are hoping to run in the following weekend for the first time!
    Markwrx
    Basic Member
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    14 Sep 2011 09:12 PM
    Sho Torii wrote:
    I'm picking up the 85 Citation tomorrow. Really excited! We'll pour a seat and make other adjustments in this weekend and are hoping to run in the following weekend for the first time!

    Tell us more. Have you posted about this previously? Where will you be running?

    Mark

    Sho Torii
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    Posts:108


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    14 Sep 2011 09:43 PM
    Yes, I have posted here before. I will be picking up Jim Garry's Citation (6-time national championship car) tomorrow. I and my wife will be running with the NNJR (Northern New Jersey Region) and will be the only C Mod car in the region. We will travel to the Philly Region and WDCR (Washington DC) on a regular basis. Unless something unexpected happens (like it did this year), we will be at Nationals in 2012.
    Markwrx
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    15 Sep 2011 11:21 AM
    Sho Torii wrote:
    Yes, I have posted here before. I will be picking up Jim Garry's Citation (6-time national championship car) tomorrow. I and my wife will be running with the NNJR (Northern New Jersey Region) and will be the only C Mod car in the region. We will travel to the Philly Region and WDCR (Washington DC) on a regular basis. Unless something unexpected happens (like it did this year), we will be at Nationals in 2012.

    Darn, you are on the wrong coast:>) Enjoy your new car.

    Mark

    GChambers
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    15 Sep 2011 12:52 PM
    Locked wrote:
    Markwrx wrote:
    GChambers wrote:
    We had 8 drivers in CM and one in CML today in Indy. Good times. Close racing!

    We were just counting and came up w/ 9 drivers and 5 cars on the whole west coast. You guys have a great group. Any suggestions as to how I can generate more interest here in SF region? Recently I have been saying "you can try to make a street car a better autocrosser, or you can do a lot less work making a road race car a great autocrosser".

    Mark

    Just find ways to let the people asking the questions drive the car.

    Nick does a lot of this too.

    Dick Rasmussen
    Advanced Member
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    Posts:931


    --
    15 Sep 2011 03:13 PM
    GChambers wrote:
    Locked wrote:
    Markwrx wrote:
    GChambers wrote:
    We had 8 drivers in CM and one in CML today in Indy. Good times. Close racing!

    We were just counting and came up w/ 9 drivers and 5 cars on the whole west coast. You guys have a great group. Any suggestions as to how I can generate more interest here in SF region? Recently I have been saying "you can try to make a street car a better autocrosser, or you can do a lot less work making a road race car a great autocrosser".

    Mark

    Just find ways to let the people asking the questions drive the car.

    Nick does a lot of this too.

    Considering how many cones I've hit in my two events this year (almost every run) anyone who I let drive my car is probably going to beat me on official time if not also raw time. Anyone have a cure for CM "cone itis" for someone who used to rarely hit cones?


    Jim G
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    15 Sep 2011 06:58 PM
    Dick,
    Are you hitting the cones with the front tires? Rears? Or broadside :-)

    Old tires or new (or newish)?

    Jim
    Dick Rasmussen
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    15 Sep 2011 08:26 PM
    Jim G wrote:
    Dick,
    Are you hitting the cones with the front tires? Rears? Or broadside :-)

    Old tires or new (or newish)?


    Jim

    Jim,

    I was just "bemoaning" the results of not driving the car much in the last few years and was kind of surprised that driving the small CM in an autox versus a "large" Mustang daily didn't make me be too far from the cones, not too close.

    Rear tires. Both sides (one side at a time). Most of the cone hits are simply from driving too close in relatively open slalom or slalom like course elements which didn't used to be a problem. I don't mind the ones where I got out of shape from over driving the car. Tires' weren't an issue and the car width hasn't changed.

    Too greedy and taking "looking ahead" to an extreme. :-)

    This weekend I'll get cool and probably wet practice on slicks. That should be "fun" :-(

    Worst part is that the car will probably get wet and dirty from the tow and/or running for the first time since I went through it this winter. :-(

    Not like it hasn't been soaked while towing before. I've towed it through really heavy thunderstorms numerous times over the years.

    Dick


    Markwrx
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    16 Sep 2011 07:45 PM

    Just lined up Hoosier rains. Now I am ready for everything:>)

    Mark

    jfossum
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    Posts:102


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    22 Sep 2011 08:20 PM

    Sorry for the slight thread hyjack, but:

    Jim G. Did you sell your car?

    Pete C. Did you move to Greenville?

    Jim Fossum

    Jim G
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    23 Sep 2011 12:58 PM

    Hi Jim,

    Hope you are well. We miss you in MoHud ... well, at least the people over the age of 40 miss you!

    Yes, I sold my car. PM me if you want to talk about the old days or other things.

    Jim

    Sho Torii
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    Posts:108


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    26 Sep 2011 11:42 AM

    My wife, Keiko, and I ran the very first event in our new (to us) Citation FF at Meadowlands yesterday. Believe it or not, the slow drive around the paddock prior to the event was our first time ever to drive a formula car. We checked the pedal postions and their sensitivity, tried the gear shift, readjusted the sitting position and off to the first autocross run. We started slow just to make sure that we feel confortable with the car and controls and gradually went faster. By the end of the day, both of us managed to post somewhat respectable times feeling that we still left a lot of time on the course.

    The car was an absolute blast to drive. I believe I owe it to Jim's fine chassis tuning. The car felt neutral yet was very responsive to the steering and throttle inputs. We both agreed that we were happy with the move and put our CSP Miata that we had owned and developed for the last 10+ years out for sale last night.

    Big thanks to Jim for the great car! And million thanks to everyone in this thread who facilitated our move. I admit the discovery of this thread made our move so much easier.

    Sho

    pru
    Basic Member
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    Posts:151


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    26 Sep 2011 12:30 PM
    Sho Torii wrote:

    The car was an absolute blast to drive. I believe I owe it to Jim's fine chassis tuning. The car felt neutral yet was very responsive to the steering and throttle inputs. We both agreed that we were happy with the move and put our CSP Miata that we had owned and developed for the last 10+ years out for sale last night.

    Sho,

    Thanks for the update. Looking forward to seeing you at some of the National level events in 2012.

    BTW: Time to update your avatar!

    Jim G
    Advanced Member
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    Posts:837


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    26 Sep 2011 07:08 PM
    Sho ... I can't believe you said that! I was telling everyone the car was handling horribly at Lincoln and that's why I did so poorly. You've ruined my excuse! :-) Glad you are enjoying it. I'm also glad it's got a good home.


    P.S. You need to change your avatar now!
    Dick Rasmussen
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    26 Sep 2011 07:11 PM
    Hey Pru,

    Have you kept track of how many CM converts there have been in the last year or so thanks to all the "salesmanship" by us old timers here and on ApexSpeed? So far I think Jim's car may be the only car that was sold by an active CM driver so that would be lots of new cars in the class.

    Dick
    CM advocate
    pru
    Basic Member
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    26 Sep 2011 08:14 PM
    DickR wrote:
    Hey Pru,

    Have you kept track of how many CM converts there have been in the last year or so thanks to all the "salesmanship" by us old timers here and on ApexSpeed? So far I think Jim's car may be the only car that was sold by an active CM driver so that would be lots of new cars in the class.

    Dick
    CM advocate

    Dick,

    Good question. I have not been keeping an exact count, but here a rough listing with new cars, drivers, and/or co-drivers in the past 12 months:

    Code:

    #

    Owner

    Co-Driver

    Year

    Make

    Model

    11

    Tom Walgamuth

    85

    Reynard

    85F

    12

    Neil Roberts

    92

    Swift

    DB6

    14

    Peo & Mari Orvendal

    82

    Crossle

    50F

    21

    David Flesher

    88

    Van Diemen

    RF88

    37

    Mark Mervich

    90

    Van Diemen

    RR90

    44

    Robert Puertas

    Eric Clements

    85

    Mondiale

    MS85

    47

    Joshua Parker

    85

    Reynard

    85F

    50

    Clancy Schmidt

    85

    Swift

    DB1

    51

    Sho Torii

    Keiko Tsuzuro

    85

    Citation

    70

    Andrew Howe

    Dennis Healy

    82

    Reynard

    82F

    78

    Larry Harts

    83

    Reynard

    FF83

    78

    Ed Rushing

    Joe Ricard

    88

    Van Diemen

    RF88

    87

    Nick Myers

    Mark Lamm

    85

    Van Diemen

    RF85

    90

    Geoff Chambers

    Gustavo Hammerly

    84

    Van Diemen

    RF84

    96

    Barry Ott

    95

    Van Diemen

    RF95

    kjchristopher
    New Member
    New Member
    Posts:91


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    26 Sep 2011 09:33 PM
    George Schilling (Los Angeles) recently purchased on and will be campaigning it once the engine is fixed.
    mwood
    Veteran Member
    Veteran Member
    Posts:2279


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    26 Sep 2011 09:48 PM
    Mark, my Shelby is now for sale (I think I mean it, this time...) to create some garage space ;-)

    Any chance on getting a couple of laps in your car at the Oct AAS weekend?


    Mike
    pru
    Basic Member
    Basic Member
    Posts:151


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    26 Sep 2011 09:54 PM
    kjchristopher wrote:
    George Schilling (Los Angeles) recently purchased on and will be campaigning it once the engine is fixed.

    Thanks KJ! I will add George to the CM Particpation Listing we are keeping on ApexSpeed.

    PCalhoun
    Basic Member
    Basic Member
    Posts:149


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    26 Sep 2011 09:57 PM
    jfossum wrote:

    Sorry for the slight thread hyjack, but:

    Jim G. Did you sell your car?

    Pete C. Did you move to Greenville?

    Jim Fossum

    JIm,

    The answer to both questions is yes. I am working for Michelin and just built a house in Simpsonville not far from Marc Osgood.

    TedV
    New Member
    New Member
    Posts:


    --
    27 Sep 2011 09:04 PM
    DickR wrote:Considering how many cones I've hit in my two events this year (almost every run) anyone who I let drive my car is probably going to beat me on official time if not also raw time. Anyone have a cure for CM "cone itis" for someone who used to rarely hit cones?


    If it would make you feel any better I offer to come warm tires for ya. The most cones I ever hit with my CM car was something like 20 in one run. That should teach em to make "wall-oms". then raced a corner worker to a cone the previous car knocked down to get a rerun.

    GChambers
    Veteran Member
    Veteran Member
    Posts:1928


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    30 Sep 2011 12:25 PM
    DickR wrote:
    Hey Pru,

    Have you kept track of how many CM converts there have been in the last year or so thanks to all the "salesmanship" by us old timers here and on ApexSpeed? So far I think Jim's car may be the only car that was sold by an active CM driver so that would be lots of new cars in the class.

    Dick
    CM advocate

    Mark Lamm hooked me last year at a Test and Tune. He was probably tired of me drooling all over the Dulon and offered me a ride. I was ruined instantly and started shopping the next day.

    Getting people to drive the cars really is the way to hook them. It takes a few runs though because there's quite a learning curve. Mark and Nick are great with being patient with people. I think that's why they've hooked so many.

    Markwrx
    Basic Member
    Basic Member
    Posts:247


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    01 Oct 2011 11:25 AM
    mwood wrote:
    Mark, my Shelby is now for sale (I think I mean it, this time...) to create some garage space ;-)

    Any chance on getting a couple of laps in your car at the Oct AAS weekend?


    Mike

    Mike,

    I have Ben set up to co drive on Sun, so Sat is ava, afternoon run group. e mail me "mwizard@earthlink.net", or call 650-367-6326.

    Mark

    mwood
    Veteran Member
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    Posts:2279


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    01 Oct 2011 11:39 AM
    ^sent ya an email. Thanks
    Markwrx
    Basic Member
    Basic Member
    Posts:247


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    03 Oct 2011 11:05 AM

    Now I have 2 guys set up to co drive the VD this coming wkend(a 2 day event). Fire up the "CM cars for sale" thread!

    Mark

    Markwrx
    Basic Member
    Basic Member
    Posts:247


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    17 Oct 2011 10:49 AM

    I ran with the BMW club yesterday. What fun. I was fastest time by 2.9 sec. Since I was in the first run group I set the bar early; I heard people were asking who had the top time, besides that guy? :>)

    Of course this is Silicon Valley with lots of engineers. It seems that every time I walked away from the car when I got back there was a small crowd standing around it. I answered lots of questions.

    As I was listening to all the tire squealing on the concrete pad, I was very happy that I have gone over to the mod side.

    Here is a picture. http://www.flickr.com/photos/438590...7912663582

    The owner of the "for sale" Swift in Alameda was there. I suggested he should make an autocrosser out of it.

    Mark

    Markwrx
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    Basic Member
    Posts:247


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    17 Oct 2011 10:53 AM
    Markwrx wrote:

    Now I have 2 guys set up to co drive the VD this coming wkend(a 2 day event). Fire up the "CM cars for sale" thread!

    Mark

    Ben did not make it to this event. When I talked to him later, he grilled me about co driving my car and going to Nationals. Sometimes when you get something started it gets going on its own.

    Mark

    Dick Rasmussen
    Advanced Member
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    Posts:931


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    17 Oct 2011 01:03 PM
    Mark,

    Where is this great looking site?

    Dick
    Markwrx
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    Basic Member
    Posts:247


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    17 Oct 2011 07:09 PM

    Dick,

    This site is the Marina airport, just N of Monterey. Here is a link to more pictures by me.
    http://markm.zenfolio.com/p898227440
    Markwrx
    Basic Member
    Basic Member
    Posts:247


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    31 Oct 2011 08:37 PM

    Yesterday Ben drove my car. He is sold on FF and CM. He drove his Mekur(1st in DSP 2 yrs ago at Nationals) in run group 1 and was about 2 sec ahead of #2 in that group. He drove the Van Diemen in run group 2 and was sitting in my car after his 3rd run and noted that he was 3.4 sec faster than in the Mekur and then he said "where do you find 3.4 sec on a course?" All I could say is I have wondered the same thing. He was TTOD by 1.4 sec and top PAX by .3 sec., about 2.4 sec faster then me. There were 3 other mod cars at the event!

    Mark

    Dick Rasmussen
    Advanced Member
    Advanced Member
    Posts:931


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    31 Oct 2011 10:17 PM
    Mark,

    One of the most fun aspects of a Mod class car is to be in a Pro Solo challenge where the car you are running against has a 3 second or so dial in head start and beating them back to the line 25 or 30 seconds later.

    One of the harder parts of CM is knowing that the cars are so similar and therefore the difference between my time and someone else's faster time is "me".
    Markwrx
    Basic Member
    Basic Member
    Posts:247


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    01 Nov 2011 10:38 AM
    DickR wrote:
    Mark,

    One of the most fun aspects of a Mod class car is to be in a Pro Solo challenge where the car you are running against has a 3 second or so dial in head start and beating them back to the line 25 or 30 seconds later.

    One of the harder parts of CM is knowing that the cars are so similar and therefore the difference between my time and someone else's faster time is "me".

    I have not had the pleasure of a Pro, but on one run Sun, the car ahead of me was still at the time slip stop when I got there. Being beaten by my co driver by 2.4 sec is a bit humbling. At least my best scratch would have been #2 overall.

    The Van Diemen is a Sh*t load of fun!

    Mark

    Markwrx
    Basic Member
    Basic Member
    Posts:247


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    12 Dec 2011 12:10 PM

    Our last event of the season yesterday. So far I have had 3 co drivers. One bought a FF and the other 2 propositioned me to co drive next year. :>)

    Yesterday Chris got TTOD in my car and during fun runs I found out how fast was too fast for the Van Diemen in the solum. Great fun. We softened the rear bar for our last run and each took off 1.3 sec! Went from too willing to over steer under power on to near neutral.

    Next event out here is Jan 1, and we restart the season on Feb 12.

    Mark

    Markwrx
    Basic Member
    Basic Member
    Posts:247


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    24 Dec 2011 03:47 PM

    Lots of Van Diemen info here. http://www.vandiemen.registry.frees...index.html

    Mark

    loudes13
    Basic Member
    Basic Member
    Posts:208


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    23 Jan 2012 06:34 PM

    Most F125's seem to need a helper, but do can autox FF's run without crew or a co-driver? Any issues with starting them hot or the battery dying?

    Markwrx
    Basic Member
    Basic Member
    Posts:247


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    23 Jan 2012 08:53 PM
    loudes13 wrote:

    Most F125's seem to need a helper, but do can autox FF's run without crew or a co-driver? Any issues with starting them hot or the battery dying?

    I use a back up battery to start on grid. I unplug it before I get in and I can do all this w/o help. No problem w/ hot start and I charge the on board battery before each event. It will start the car many times, if I mess up. It is More fun w/ a co driver.

    Mark

    pru
    Basic Member
    Basic Member
    Posts:151


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    23 Jan 2012 09:03 PM
    loudes13 wrote:

    Most F125's seem to need a helper, but do can autox FF's run without crew or a co-driver? Any issues with starting them hot or the battery dying?

    In my opinion, running a CM car as a single driver can be easily done. I run 90% of the time without a co-driver (as do a number of others). One key is making sure you have a good battery that is fully charged prior to the start of an event. Another key is making sure you can belt yourself in the car (not as trivial as it might first sound!). Likely the biggest issue you will face is loading the car onto the trailer; it's doable alone, but a helping hand is always appreciated!

    mwood
    Veteran Member
    Veteran Member
    Posts:2279


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    23 Jan 2012 10:13 PM
    pru wrote:
    loudes13 wrote:

    Most F125's seem to need a helper, but do can autox FF's run without crew or a co-driver? Any issues with starting them hot or the battery dying?

    In my opinion, running a CM car as a single driver can be easily done. I run 90% of the time without a co-driver (as do a number of others). One key is making sure you have a good battery that is fully charged prior to the start of an event. Another key is making sure you can belt yourself in the car (not as trivial as it might first sound!). Likely the biggest issue you will face is loading the car onto the trailer; it's doable alone, but a helping hand is always appreciated!

    I'm not entertaining co-drive offers until I get the car good enough that I don't feel guilty about having someone else buy the tires...:-)

    Pru, do you use a winch to load the car? I'm mounting a mini Warn winch (1700# capacity, basically designed for ATV's) on my trailer...for $98, if I'm wrong and it doesn't help, I figure it is only a $20-30 loss selling used on CL.

    jtcolegrove
    Basic Member
    Basic Member
    Posts:108


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    23 Jan 2012 10:32 PM
    Do you CM guys find it helpful to have a co-driver to keep tire temps up?
    pru
    Basic Member
    Basic Member
    Posts:151


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    23 Jan 2012 11:01 PM

    @Mike: I do not use as winch. I've always thought it would be a great addition, though not enough to pursue. I would say 8 out 10 times, I can load the car just fine on my own. Seems the times I've needed assistance, there's been someone there offering help to push the car into the trailer. ;) That said, I think it's a great investment.

    @Jeff: Yep, a co-driver is a definite advantage on those days when keeping tire temps up is an issue. In my opinion, 2011 Nationals was not one of those times!

    Markwrx
    Basic Member
    Basic Member
    Posts:247


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    24 Jan 2012 11:20 AM

    I can push the FF on to the trailer by myself, just barely. Usually I drive it on to the trailer. The Hoosiers warm up just sitting on grid when the sun is shining. I cover them when it is cold. They are so small that after one or 2 turns they are ready to go.

    Mark

    Dick Rasmussen
    Advanced Member
    Advanced Member
    Posts:931


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    24 Jan 2012 03:42 PM

    I use a single speed hand winch for my car (open trailer). At home the car loads and unloads on an uphill grade.

    I need the arm exercise in any case. :-)

    I'm not about to risk the clutch.

    With an enclosed trailer a hand winch probably isn't practical.

    Dick

    CM 85

    mwood
    Veteran Member
    Veteran Member
    Posts:2279


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    25 Jan 2012 12:23 AM
    I'll report back on how the little Warn works out. Honestly, I googled "winch" thinking about picking up a hand winch, just 'cause, and I stumbled on an Amazon.com deal on the 1700# Warn. It really wasn't much more than a hand winch and I had an extra battery connector sitting on the bench, so I figured "why not?"...I can just plug the jumper battery into the connector to power it up, if I don't have the energy or friends around to push the car onto the trailer :-)
    Dick Rasmussen
    Advanced Member
    Advanced Member
    Posts:931


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    25 Jan 2012 11:12 AM
    mwood wrote:
    I'll report back on how the little Warn works out. Honestly, I googled "winch" thinking about picking up a hand winch, just 'cause, and I stumbled on an Amazon.com deal on the 1700# Warn. It really wasn't much more than a hand winch and I had an extra battery connector sitting on the bench, so I figured "why not?"...I can just plug the jumper battery into the connector to power it up, if I don't have the energy or friends around to push the car onto the trailer :-)

    http://www.warn.com/utility/dcwinch...00DC.shtml

    What is the typical way to supply DC power to a trailer winch since using a jumper battery is probably not all that common? It looks like the normal "pull a light car up ramps" current is going to be between 10 and 25 amps. Can a normal 12V circuit between a tow vehicle and a trailer provide that much current with normal wire size and fusing? I'm assuming a trailer brake circuit and a "charging circuit" for trailer batteries are the only "high current" circuits. My present tow vehicle only has the trailer brake circuit (6 pin connector). Plus I don't use a jump battery.

    Thanks,

    Dick

    Don Elzinga
    New Member
    New Member
    Posts:41


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    25 Jan 2012 05:22 PM
    My trailer has a winch, but no battery. If the car's already warmed up I just drive it into the trailer. Otherwise I push it.

    Don
    loudes13
    Basic Member
    Basic Member
    Posts:208


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    26 Jan 2012 12:52 AM

    What exactly is an "integral first gear"?

    I have never heard this term before.

    Dick Rasmussen
    Advanced Member
    Advanced Member
    Posts:931


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    26 Jan 2012 08:16 AM
    loudes13 wrote:

    What exactly is an "integral first gear"?

    I have never heard this term before.

    Hewland calls it a "fixed" first gear. The smaller gear of the gearset is machined on the layshaft for strength rather than being a separate slide on gear.

    Dick

    loudes13
    Basic Member
    Basic Member
    Posts:208


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    26 Jan 2012 06:57 PM
    Does the smaller integral gear prevent you from running slightly taller ratios for the occasional track event or hillclimbs?
    barryott
    New Member
    New Member
    Posts:63


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    26 Jan 2012 07:06 PM
    loudes13 wrote:
    Does the smaller integral gear prevent you from running slightly taller ratios for the occasional track event or hillclimbs?

    Naaa! Gear changes are a snap. If you want to take the car to the track or hillclimb, you just change out the gears, and probably put the regular slider 1st gear stuff back it.....assuming you kept it after buying the integral shaft set-up or if the car came with both. It's not much different than a road racer going to a different track, they'll generally use different gears for each track.

    Barry

    Dick Rasmussen
    Advanced Member
    Advanced Member
    Posts:931


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    26 Jan 2012 08:39 PM

    Plus, for a hill climb you might need the short first gear anyway so you would just run taller gears for 2 - 4 as needed for the particular hill.

    Before buying a fixed first gear there are some "variables" to sort out first so you may have more questions.

    Dick

    na94
    New Member
    New Member
    Posts:38


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    29 Jan 2012 12:03 PM

    Did someone say Hill Climb???

    I just keep the autocross gearing for hill climbs. I find my 3rd gear could be a bit taller, but that's about it. It's not really worth switching out - although the process is not rocket science.

    mwood
    Veteran Member
    Veteran Member
    Posts:2279


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    29 Jan 2012 09:04 PM

    Here's the winch installed...I had some scrap 1/4" plate, so that's what I used for the mount. I also had an extra battery connector, so I stuck it under the mount. Tried it out today and, using the jumper battery, it worked great. I winched the car onto the trailer on an incline and it just cranked it up, no problem. Total cost was right at $100, as I had to pick up a couple of electrical crimp connectors and the fasteners to bolt it to the trailer (plus the $98 the winch cost). Probably overkill, having an electric winch for a CM car on an open trailer, but that darn amazon.com made me do it...:-)

    http:///http://i43.tinypic.com/ei0ao9.jpg

    Markwrx
    Basic Member
    Basic Member
    Posts:247


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    29 Jan 2012 11:53 PM

    Ok, Mike, now that you have the car on the trailer, what next?

    I may need one of these winches.

    Mark

    mwood
    Veteran Member
    Veteran Member
    Posts:2279


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    30 Jan 2012 12:13 AM

    Mark, I'm still working on stuff for the anti roll bars. I've finished the pillow blocks, the drop links and one slide adjuster...leaving three adjusters left to machine (I could have just welded up a tube/tabs/lock nut type of deal for the adjusters, but I wanted something a little more trick). Anyhow, my friend is going to make the other adjusters this week and then I'll take the car down to Jesus' shop and corner weight/align...at which point, I should be ready for a shake down event.

    Did Ben end up buying that Swift? I see it has sold...

    Markwrx
    Basic Member
    Basic Member
    Posts:247


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    30 Jan 2012 12:41 PM

    2nd event of the year out here(I missed the first one). The wonderful weather(70 deg and sun) is getting to be a problem as in drought. I did 2 sets of runs and still finished 0.12 sec behind the 400+ hp stripped out Subie for fastest time. I did not take out any cones, so I wasn't trying hard enough. For those of you who want a bit of autoX hit, here is a link to on car video. http://youtu.be/ZCUJcHw8QxI. I have figured out how to keep the camera from tilting up.

    Mark


    chrisw
    New Member
    New Member
    Posts:85


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    30 Jan 2012 04:31 PM
    Mark,

    after "test fitting" your car, I think I am hooked.. damm you :) ... I didn't need to buy a new autox car this year.

    I think I need a different chassis, your van dieman is a little tight on my shoulders. But other than that I kinda sorta fit into the car. I think if I made a new seat I could get a better fit, but that car looks tremendously fun to drive.

    So does anyone want to trade a reasonably prepared SM car for a formula ford???
    Markwrx
    Basic Member
    Basic Member
    Posts:247


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    30 Jan 2012 07:22 PM

    It appears that Formula Fords sell themselves to autocrossers. Now that I think about it, I bought without a test drive:)

    Come on in, Chris, the ride is a sh*t load of fun.

    Mark

    GChambers
    Veteran Member
    Veteran Member
    Posts:1928


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    30 Jan 2012 10:40 PM
    chrisw wrote:
    Mark,

    after "test fitting" your car, I think I am hooked.. damm you :) ... I didn't need to buy a new autox car this year.

    I think I need a different chassis, your van dieman is a little tight on my shoulders. But other than that I kinda sorta fit into the car. I think if I made a new seat I could get a better fit, but that car looks tremendously fun to drive.

    So does anyone want to trade a reasonably prepared SM car for a formula ford???

    I'm about 6'1" and was about 235lbs when I started my shopping. Surprisingly, I "fit" in almost every car I tried and I actually bought the car that was the tightest fit on me. I was a bit worried that I wouldn't be happy long term but the car and I have seemed to "mesh" if that makes sense. I have adapted to be comfortable in the car. I always wear the smallest driving shoes I have and wear nothing more than a t-shirt when I drive. Long sleeve on the really crummy days. I keep a jacket close in grid on those days and it goes on between runs. I stay plenty warm in the car.

    Basically what I'm saying is that if you can get yourself into and out of your car you'll find that you adapt quite nicely to the car. There are also some small changes you'll find you can do that will make a big difference in how you fit into the car. Before I bought mine it was a concern but Mark Lamm kept telling me "Just get one. We'll figure out how to make you fit in it." Other than a few little changed I wanted to make anyway, we didn't have to do anything for me to be comfortable.

    Good luck with your search. Let us know when you find one.

    mwood
    Veteran Member
    Veteran Member
    Posts:2279


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    30 Jan 2012 11:12 PM

    Chris, as you know, I'm not really tall (5'11") or big (165), but I also had problems with the VD "fit" around my shoulders (both Mark's RF90 and my RF88)...it is definitely tighter than the vintage FF's (Merlyn, Lotus) I've driven. But, as GChambers said, you get used to it. I messed around with some of the seat padding and layback, also. If you think the VD's are tight, don't "try on" a Swift...they're even tighter!

    It would be great if you bought a CM car. That would make at least 4-5 drivers running local events and, given the growth in the class down in SoCal and in the PacNorthwest, we should have pretty full fields at the West Coast Tours, for sure....I'm thinking we could have 6-8 cars at both SD and Packwood :-)

    chrisw
    New Member
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    31 Jan 2012 12:28 PM
    currently I work out a lot with cross fit training. I'm 5'11" 205-ish, but with broad shoulders. I was able to fit a little more comfortably after moving some of the foam supports around. the way it fit this
    past sunday, I don't think I could turn the steering wheel to full lock, it was that tight.

    If I made a new seat, relocated the steering wheel a bit, and possibly move the pedals a bit forward, I could fit really nice into Mark's car.
    I am definitely researching the car and the class now. If I can get a quick sale on my '03 Lancer evolution, then I could be in a car by summer at the earliest.

    Mike, I can't wait to see your car... But I warn you.. I might be asking for a drive every now and then... :)
    mwood
    Veteran Member
    Veteran Member
    Posts:2279


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    31 Jan 2012 09:54 PM
    chrisw wrote:

    Mike, I can't wait to see your car... But I warn you.. I might be asking for a drive every now and then... :)

    Bring tires...;-)

    loudes13
    Basic Member
    Basic Member
    Posts:208


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    28 Feb 2012 07:41 PM
    How tough is it for a novice to install the integral 1st gear and autox type gearing? Can a newb figure it out with just the manual and an afternoon?
    Don Elzinga
    New Member
    New Member
    Posts:41


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    28 Feb 2012 10:00 PM

    If you've got the Hewland manual and a reasonable set of tools it's not bad at all. Setting up a new ring and pinion and adjusting the shift forks require special tools, but installing the integral 1st really isn't any harder than swapping ratios, which many people do at the track. One thing missing from the manual is the oil refill level - add one quart after a gear swap (or one and a half quarts if the box started out dry.)

    Don

    Dick Rasmussen
    Advanced Member
    Advanced Member
    Posts:931


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    29 Feb 2012 02:06 PM
    Don Elzinga wrote:

    If you've got the Hewland manual and a reasonable set of tools it's not bad at all. Setting up a new ring and pinion and adjusting the shift forks require special tools, but installing the integral 1st really isn't any harder than swapping ratios, which many people do at the track. One thing missing from the manual is the oil refill level - add one quart after a gear swap (or one and a half quarts if the box started out dry.)

    Don

    Just to clarify since I cannot find a post about the R&P or the shift forks.

    As far as I know (personal experience) changing to an integral first does not involve the R&P or the shift fork setup.

    The hardest part about changing gears (integral shaft or otherwise) is lining everything up for reassembly and getting the last 1/4 to 1/2 inch.

    Go to Apexspeed.com/forums for lots of posts on the topic. In fact if you get a FF you NEED to spend time on ApexSpeed

    unless you happen to like learning everything easy the "hardway" like many of us "veterans" had to do in the pre internet days (i.e. the 90's).

    Dick

    CM since 1992

    Don Elzinga
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    New Member
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    29 Feb 2012 09:33 PM

    DickR wrote:

    Just to clarify since I cannot find a post about the R&P or the shift forks.

    As far as I know (personal experience) changing to an integral first does not involve the R&P or the shift fork setup.

    The hardest part about changing gears (integral shaft or otherwise) is lining everything up for reassembly and getting the last 1/4 to 1/2 inch.

    Go to Apexspeed.com/forums for lots of posts on the topic. In fact if you get a FF you NEED to spend time on ApexSpeed

    unless you happen to like learning everything easy the "hardway" like many of us "veterans" had to do in the pre internet days (i.e. the 90's).

    Dick

    CM since 1992

    Right, I just meant that while there are some types of trans work best left to a pro, swapping ratios is pretty straightforward. And an integral 1st is no harder than a slip-on gear.

    Don

    DougW
    New Member
    New Member
    Posts:53


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    02 Mar 2012 08:35 AM

    Apexspeed is a fantastic resource. I highly recommend it. I lurked there for a few months and ended up buying a CM FF (Peter Calhoun's Swift). The SCCA Forums, in particular this thread, have also proven to be a great resource. If nothing else all of this showed me that CM is an active community.

    Now, does anyone have a 16-18 foot enclosed trailer for sale :)

    Doug

    jtcolegrove
    Basic Member
    Basic Member
    Posts:108


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    02 Mar 2012 05:19 PM
    DougW wrote:

    Apexspeed is a fantastic resource. I highly recommend it. I lurked there for a few months and ended up buying a CM FF (Peter Calhoun's Swift). The SCCA Forums, in particular this thread, have also proven to be a great resource. If nothing else all of this showed me that CM is an active community.

    Now, does anyone have a 16-18 foot enclosed trailer for sale :)

    Doug

    Doug, look for a post by Chris Ross(Lancer360) on apexspeed. He's got a nice trailer in that range for sale.

    DougW
    New Member
    New Member
    Posts:53


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    02 Mar 2012 05:45 PM

    Thanks! Yes I saw that one. It is very nice. We traded a few PM's on the height. I am looking for something just a bit shorter as I will keep it in my garage.

    Markwrx
    Basic Member
    Basic Member
    Posts:247


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    07 Feb 2016 07:55 PM
    Just re read this thread. Been a long wonderful 4 yrs of FFing with lots of seat time and two visits to Nationals. Going through withdrawal while waiting for my motor to be rebuilt(soon, I hope). Still finding ways to fine-tune and adjust my car for better performance. We now have 5 FF in the SF region. I had some competition for the championship this year. Moving to the San Diego area soon, a whole new group of FF people. I have met most of them at National events.
    Appreciate all of the help the other FF drivers have given me.
    Mark


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