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Last Post 25 Dec 2009 11:36 AM by  glenn@traileroutlet.com
How to attach elect winch in enclosed trailer
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msimanyi
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26 Feb 2007 09:46 PM

Since the thread has several mentions of tongue weight, let me add a link to a very convenient tongue weight scale I use and highly recommend:

http://www.sherline.com/lm.htm


It's both convenient and far more accurate than any other method I can imagine.

Mike

mitchntx
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27 Feb 2007 06:03 AM

I installed a Warn DC winch in my enclosed trailer.

I have a large tool box at the front, middle of the trailer. I wanted the winch out of harms way and not to be a tripping hazard.

So, I sacrificed the large bottom drawer of the tool box.

I removed the drawer and mounted the winch to the floor using large washers as backing plates.
I ran power to the winch from a dedicated battery located inside the trailer.
I cut away the bottom of the drawer, the back side, except for the upper rib and cut a notch in the front for the cable.

Now the cable feeds through the notch to load the car and is completely out of the way when not in use.

If tongue weight is an issue, I highly suggest a weight distributing hitch.
Works wonders for tow-ability.

franman27
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03 Mar 2007 09:08 PM

All good suggestions, but if you really only need it for when the car won't run you can save both money and weight by getting a hand cranked boat trailer winch.

Easy for me to say, my car weighs 600#.

jkmcgrath
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09 Mar 2007 08:16 PM

Hey all, good post and just what I was looking for :)

I was wondering how those of you with enclosed trailers with wood floors and mounted the battery inside routed the ground wire for the battery?

I have a built a generator compartment to carry the generator, spare and quick access items in and want to mount the battery in there too so I can use it for lights as well and keep things organized. I just hate to drill holes in the floor to run the cable for the ground :(

BETO
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09 Mar 2007 09:10 PM
franman27 wrote:

All good suggestions, but if you really only need it for when the car won't run you can save both money and weight by getting a hand cranked boat trailer winch.

Easy for me to say, my car weighs 600#.

Ditto.

That's what I got until I see the need of using $300+ on a electric winch. I know is not as "cool", but it does the job.

Here, very cheap, it's on special at $19.99 at a nearby store:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ct...number=543

G1
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16 Aug 2007 08:56 AM

Another mounting idea: some of the ATV winches come with or you could fab a hitch ball mount. (A simple flat 1/8" plate with a keyhole slot would do) then bolt a hitch ball to the floor at the front of the trailer. Store the winch where you want, drop it over the ball when pulling the car in. Remember, the rolling weight of a vehicle is much lower that it's curb weight, so you don't need a HD winch or mount.

Don't want to drill a hole in the floor??? How did you mount anything in the trailer? You don't need an automotive sized ground cable, a length of 8 or 10ga stranded wire will handle the load, especially if you keep it short. If you want to keep the hole small and use a heavier cable bolt a small angle brace from the hardware store to the frame and under the floor, drill a 1/4" hole and run a 1 1/2" bolt from the bottom thru the brace and floor. Secure it with a flat washer lock washer and nut on top. You now have a ground stud inside the trailer! A couple washers and a wing nut will clamp a wire terminal in place on the stud and make removing the battery or hooking up a charger easy, a longer bolt will allow the stud to be used for grounding several devices.

wrchas
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17 Aug 2007 11:23 PM
I've seen winches in the spare tire wheel well.
Primetime Glick
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20 Aug 2007 11:31 AM
G1 wrote:

Another mounting idea: some of the ATV winches come with or you could fab a hitch ball mount. (A simple flat 1/8" plate with a keyhole slot would do) then bolt a hitch ball to the floor at the front of the trailer. Store the winch where you want, drop it over the ball when pulling the car in.

This may seem like a "dumb" question but what kind of mount are you referring to? If somehow mounted on a hitch "ball" wouldn't it spin around?? Warn, for ex., makes some mounting systems that slide into or basically ARE a hitch receiver but what are you talking about?

G1
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24 Aug 2007 07:24 PM
Primetime Glick wrote:
G1 wrote:

Another mounting idea: some of the ATV winches come with or you could fab a hitch ball mount. (A simple flat 1/8" plate with a keyhole slot would do) then bolt a hitch ball to the floor at the front of the trailer. Store the winch where you want, drop it over the ball when pulling the car in.

This may seem like a "dumb" question but what kind of mount are you referring to? If somehow mounted on a hitch "ball" wouldn't it spin around?? Warn, for ex., makes some mounting systems that slide into or basically ARE a hitch receiver but what are you talking about?

Basically just a flat plate bolted to the winch with a "keyhole" cutout behind the spool of the winch (think of the keyhole hanger on the back of a plaque). Drop the larger round portion of the keyhole over the ball and slide it towards the back door so the neck of the ball fits into the narrower slot portion of the keyhole. The tension on the cable will keep it in place and it can't jump off the ball accidently. It can swing side to side but it will only do that if you are pulling at an angle. Once the cable is disconnected just slide it forwards and lift over the ball. The only reason you are using a ball is because it is the right shape and strength.

Primetime Glick
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04 Sep 2007 04:15 PM

G1 wrote:
The tension on the cable will keep it in place and it can't jump off the ball accidently. It can swing side to side but it will only do that if you are pulling at an angle.

Hmm -that is what I was concerned about.

TeamRX8
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Posts:2405


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09 Oct 2007 10:03 PM

After all those course walks you need to work your upper body too for balance

http://shop.easternmarine.com/index...goryID=197

glenn@traileroutlet.com
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25 Dec 2009 11:36 AM
When installing an electric winch in an enclosed trailer , it is best to have a mounting plate under the wood floor , it should be welded, or bolted to the cross members both in front , and behind it's location for adequate strength, do not rely on the plywood floor . A battery needs to be installed , or a very substantial wire run from the battery of the tow vehicle. #2 or #4 battery wire - depending on the amperage draw of the winch, this type of installation would use a separate snow plow type high amperage plug. It is more common to install a battery in an enclosed trailer , it should be in a sealed and vented battery box, batteries give off hydrogen gas when charging, and discharging, and accumulation of that gas in a confined space - especially under a cabinet , could form an explosive environment. It is a good idea to run a charging wire from the trailer plug , but that circuit should be protected by an auto-reset circuit breaker - of only 10 or 15 amp rating, depending on the gauge of the charge wire. The danger here is that if the trailer battery is weak, the winch will try to draw all of it's poer from the tow vehicles charge circuit, and this could either start an electrical fire in an unprotected circuit, or blow the fuse in the charge wire circuit on vehicles equipped with one. Typically , a truck with a 7 RV type plug would have a 30 or 40 amp fuse on this - accessory circuit. If the 10 or 15 amp auto reset circuit breaker trips, it is momentary, and given a chance to cool, it will reset, and the circuit will resume charging , without this lower value circuit breaker, it can blow the fuse in the charge line, and the winch battery will not recharge. it is not a good idea to use the taillight circuit to charge the winch battery, as the taillight circuit is usually only a 10 amp circuit, and a good portion of that is already being used to run the lights on the trailer, if this circuit is used, it should have a (battery charger ) like the ones used to recharge a breakaway battery installed in the charge line, to 1. has a diode to prevent backfeeding - otherwise it will just run the lights constantly , and kill the battery. 2. limit the charging rate - to prevent blowing the fuse on that circuit. 3. have a fuse, or circuit breaker to prevent any possible overload of amperage. On an open trailer , the same general rules apply, the battery should not be in an unvented box, circuit breakers and fuses should be in place. We install most winches on some type of quick removable mount , in a tongue box, or with a cover to minimize weather related corrosion of the winch. Glenn@traileroutlet.com
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