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Last Post 27 Oct 2014 05:05 PM by  t walgamuth
New C mod in the INdy region
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t walgamuth
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28 Jul 2012 06:58 PM

Ran at Walesboro today. Weather was beautiful. I got in 4.5 runs before knocking off my nose cone....yikes!

But the cooling system worked like a charm and the wheel bearing is as tight as can be so it looks as if we have solved that problem.

Dick Rasmussen
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28 Jul 2012 09:26 PM
t walgamuth wrote:

Ran at Walesboro today. Weather was beautiful. I got in 4.5 runs before knocking off my nose cone....yikes!

But the cooling system worked like a charm and the wheel bearing is as tight as can be so it looks as if we have solved that problem.

Tom,

I think you have had more problems that the rest of us put together (knock on wood). Sounds like your car was pretty tired when you bought it from a hard life of road racing. Some teething problems for a CM car are normal but yours seem to be on the "unfortunate" end of the bell shaped curve. A few parts like half shafts and short second gears may be stressed more with our application than their design anticipated. However generally we are either going through the normal used car "fix stuff" phase or "learn how to work on this old technology" stuff like carbs and distributors. FYI with the Honda Fit option you can even jump to the latest technology . . . just bring more money since cars which accommodate a Fit engine are pricey compared to yours and mine.

Dick (hoping I haven't jinxed myself . . . I've got 4 more runs at the HIGH grip Toledo Pro tomorrow and a weekend of runs plus TnT's at Peru before going home to Raleigh.)

t walgamuth
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29 Jul 2012 08:15 AM

Well, I guess the right rear wheel bearing saga was the worst. Lacking good information about what it is supposed to be was a real hinderance to getting it fixed. I would not be surprised if I am the only fellow in the US running an 85 Reynard at the moment. And certain parts are different on the 84 and 86. If we had understood how to check to be sure the original parts were supposed to be in the beginning it would have been quite simple to fix. It is a new thing for me to have a motor vehicle with parts that were not manufactured correctly. It is a mystery to me how the car has managed to survive all these years with an incorrectly manufactured combination of cv hub and wheel flange. The PO ran the car in nearly a dozen road races the year before I bought it from him. The only logical explanation is perhaps that the wheel bearings are dimensionally different now compared to when he or whomever bought the last previous one. I will contact Larry Oliver and make the suggestion that folks are warned to measure their hub parts before installing their new wheel bearings to be sure of proper support for the inner races.

My starter is still not right though and I am a bit perplexed as to how to proceed on that. It will work but it still misfires and I am pretty sure the new ring gear I installed last summer is being steadily chewed up now.

I am signed up for the national tour but I am so rusty and tenative and the car still has question marks so I am not sure it will be worthwhile to participate. I plan to though. I will have to make some repairs to my nose cone before friday and I am not sure how to fix the dzus fasteners which are not engaging on the bottom of it.

I put the drilled lightweight rotors on the front but not the rear and I had a lot more braking on the rear yesterday. Do the drilled rotors require some sort of breaking in period or will I just have to bite the bullet and put them on the rear as well to get balance?

t walgamuth
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02 Aug 2012 01:21 PM

This morning I installed the drilled rotors on the back. At Nick's suggestion I also installed a new brake bias adjuster. I had the nose repaired structurally and tonight will look for ways to secure it better.

Unfortunately my brother in law's mom died and I will be attending the funeral in Greenfield on Saturday but plan to run the T and T friday and on Sunday.

t walgamuth
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06 Aug 2012 06:50 AM

At the test and tune I hit the bump before the South End turn and my nose cone came off and went under the car, pretty much smashing it completely flat. I ran a couple more times with no nose and then ran into difficulty starting the car so loaded up and came home.

I got up early and discovered a nose which was in good shape but was cosmetically very rough.

I got the spare nose in shape to attach to the car by swapping the latch. I also went to the paint store and got some matching paint with some put into spray cans. This was all done before 900am since I had to leave then for the funeral in Greenfield.

When we returned at 7 pm I also reinstalled the engergy absorbing structure which offers additional support for the nose cone which I had removed to save 4#. I also sanded the worst off the nose and painted it yellow.

When getting ready to travel I noticed the left rear tire was totally flat and remembered it going soft really quickly when practicing after running over my nose. It appears to be cut down. It was nearly ten by then. I tried to think things through and tried to discover if there would be a Hoosier truck there to buy a new tire. The responses I received seemed to indicate that new hoosiers would not be available.

Facing an hour tow beginning at 530 am with a crippled car and no sure prospects of being able to fix it before the third heat I decided to stay home.

Clemens
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06 Aug 2012 09:27 AM

Tom,

What kind of damage does your tire have? If it is a puncture, you should be able to plug it and spare the expense of having to buy a new tire. I just plugged one of my tires after getting a puncture at the GLDiv event at the Silverdome.

Clemens

t walgamuth
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06 Aug 2012 01:01 PM

I dropped it this morning at my favorite tire place and they have declared it unrepairable.

So I am looking for a good used set of tires, a minimum of one for the right rear or a new set before the weekend.

t walgamuth
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07 Aug 2012 06:02 AM

It looks like Ray has a lightly used set and is coming up to Brownsburg to get Mark to so some work on his car so I will be going down there to look at and probably buy the tires this week.

Thanks Ray!

t walgamuth
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08 Aug 2012 09:16 AM
I went down to Mark's last night and bought a nice set of four tires from Ray. I got a chance to look his lovely car over with the skin off. It looks just as good with the skin off as on!;)
t walgamuth
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13 Aug 2012 05:06 AM

Starter problems. New ring gear will be required. Ran too hot. All the guages except oil pressure and oil temp went haywire. Oil pressure guage is suspect too actually.

But the newer tires worked well, and the handling of the car felt very good. The brakes seemed to be working well too. I had connected the sway bars again and that seemed to work well.

I got in three runs before it refused to start for the fourth.

I am thinking of how to introduce a fan for cooling the radiators. The fully shrouded body looks like it would probably work fine for road course work but it seems problematic for autocross. Or perhaps my radiators are dirty.

Dick Rasmussen
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13 Aug 2012 09:56 AM
Tom,

Glad to hear that you got some seat time and enjoyed fresher tires. It would be a good investment to have the radiators cleaned and maybe even recored to a modern high efficiency louvered fin version. You might talk with Mark or Nick regarding how their 85 VD manages to stay so cool. Mine runs hotter even with only one driver. Maybe theirs cools better on course since they go so fast! :-)
Nick's rads are aluminum and mine are brass. I don't know which transfers heat better.

For gauges I use the mechanical Raceparts gauges sold by Pegasus and others. I don't have an oil temp gauge, just oil pressure and water temp. They tend to need replacement after several years of hard running and long tows due to vibration and/or damage to the water gauge capillary tube but they don't use electricity.
t walgamuth
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13 Aug 2012 10:48 PM

I checked to night and found the coolant a bit low. I don't know for sure whether it had a bubble in it after I filled it or if it got hot enough to push some out of the system. I guess I will try to backflush them and see if i can work in a cooling fan and a shroud.

What are you guys running for a pressure cap? How many #?

t walgamuth
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14 Aug 2012 08:37 AM
This monring I am considering installing a small alternator to charge the battery so the cooling fan can run and the car be free of using the booster battery.
Dick Rasmussen
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14 Aug 2012 10:47 AM

Tom,

If you don't have one already a 16 cell Ballistic battery from Pegasus seems to work VERY well for LOTS of starts. Plus it weighs about 3 lbs. Talk to Pegasus regarding whether the Ballistic can be safely charged directly from the tow vehicle charging system since the max charging voltage per Ballistic is 14.4 volts. This should only be relevant for multi-day/weekend events in any case. We use our RV genset and conventional charger for those.

Geoff Chambers used a small battery powered leaf blower for cool down before runs as needed at Peru. That approach may be more practical and easier/cheaper than trying to source an alternator and mounting means.

Dick

Dick Rasmussen
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14 Aug 2012 10:29 PM
t walgamuth wrote:

I checked to night and found the coolant a bit low. I don't know for sure whether it had a bubble in it after I filled it or if it got hot enough to push some out of the system. I guess I will try to backflush them and see if i can work in a cooling fan and a shroud.

What are you guys running for a pressure cap? How many #?

Tom,

I'm running a 13# cap. It is "normal automotive" of the type that I think allows the cooling system to pull coolant back from the overflow bottle when the engine cools. I checked the coolant level today in the engine (i.e. not the bottle) after running the Toledo Pro (14 runs), EVO TnT (20 runs), and Peru Tour (6 runs) all in hot or HOT weather. Needed to add 2 fluid ounces of coolant. My water temp gauge read over 105 C a lot during these events.

Dick

t walgamuth
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15 Aug 2012 07:42 PM

Thanks Dick!

Can you tell me the name of the guy who is expert on these starters again please?

Dick Rasmussen
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15 Aug 2012 08:33 PM
t walgamuth wrote:

Thanks Dick!

Can you tell me the name of the guy who is expert on these starters again please?

You are welcome. Regarding the starter expert, I didn't provide the name but as I recall it may be Mark Bushman located "somewhere". Check Apexspeed.

Dick

t walgamuth
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16 Aug 2012 06:19 AM

yeah, found it. I'll give him a call today.

Thanks again!

t walgamuth
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23 Aug 2012 07:53 PM

So when I got ready to check the starter mesh with the ring gear I noticed that one of the copper studs where the big wire bolts onto the solinoid was stripped about 75% out. I took the starter over to the local rebuilding place and they looked it over and sold me a new solinoid. They bench tested the starter and proclaimed it working fine.

I took it home with the intent of installing the solinoid myself. When I took out the old one the bendix locked up. This evening I took it over to my favorite machinist and he took it all apart. He found that the reduction gear is only meshing about 1/8" of a total face available of at least a half inch. The drive gear for that is integral with the armiture shaft so it appears that the armiture has been replaced somewhere along the line with one that does not have a long enough shaft. The large gear has two broken teeth too.

I just ordered a new starter from Motor City Reman (though they swear all their products are new not reman.). Unfortunately it will not be here in time to run on sunday. I have a few other things to do to the car other than the starter though so I can be productive.

t walgamuth
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29 Aug 2012 06:23 AM

The new starter came yesterday. I took it all apart and found that none of the parts are different than in my old starter so if there is a problem with the amount of bite on the gears it must be in the adapter.

It looks like a quality piece though.

I will carefully put the two starters back together and look for problems.

If this doesn't work I suppose I will be looking at purchasing one of the high dollar devices available.

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