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Last Post 27 Oct 2014 05:05 PM by  t walgamuth
New C mod in the INdy region
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t walgamuth
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01 Jan 2011 03:34 PM

Two questions:

1. where do you recommend getting an integral first gear?

2. Where to get a lug nut that is just made for simple steel wheels with the small threads that my four lug wheel set up has?

Clemens
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Posts:307


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01 Jan 2011 07:07 PM

Tom,

I'd try ApexSpeed for a used one, if you want to save money. Here is one that may still be available:

http://www.apexspeed.com/forums/sho...egral+gear

If it is not the right ratio or if it is sold, post a want ad. Somebody may have one sitting at home. Beats paying for a new one.

What's special about your lug nuts? You can't get them at an auto parts store like AutoZone?

Clemens

Dick Rasmussen
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01 Jan 2011 08:02 PM

Tom,

Have you confirmed that the studs are 3/8 -24? If so and you cannot find "auto parts store" versions, Pegasus p/n 3548-008 at $2.99 each is a high price alternative. These are generally described as Triumph Spitfire size. Also this may be an ATV size. I have not confirmed this but I think you need a 60 degree taper which appears to be common.


t walgamuth
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02 Jan 2011 08:18 AM

Thanks Dick and Clemens!

I'm gonna look at the gear now!

t walgamuth
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02 Jan 2011 08:57 AM
Clemens wrote:

Tom,

I'd try ApexSpeed for a used one, if you want to save money. Here is one that may still be available:

http://www.apexspeed.com/forums/sho...egral+gear

If it is not the right ratio or if it is sold, post a want ad. Somebody may have one sitting at home. Beats paying for a new one.

What's special about your lug nuts? You can't get them at an auto parts store like AutoZone?

Clemens

Clemens, I could not get that link to work. Can you tell me which section of the site to look in, please?

Dick Rasmussen
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02 Jan 2011 09:20 AM
Tom,

Were you logged in to Apex? The link worked for me but it is a "search link". I found the direct link and posted it below.


Seller's name is Brian Graham in Ontario, Canada.

http://www.apexspeed.com/forums/sho...hp?t=39319

Have layshaft with integral gear 13 37, used. Also have two new gears, 16 36, and 15 37. Maybe of interest to someone, all 3 pieces for $250. brian.bgr@xplornet.com
t walgamuth
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02 Jan 2011 06:32 PM
OK, I did see that but it did not seem to be the result of the link. I think the integral gear is one I can use, the other two I am not sure about yet. Is the 250 a good price for a good used integral first gear?
Jim G
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02 Jan 2011 08:50 PM
Brand new they are over $450.

Plus, those other two gears are autocross second gears. Some people run higher seconds but for the cost, those would be good to add to an autocross collection.
t walgamuth
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02 Jan 2011 08:55 PM

Great! I just found the ad again and sent him a pm of interest.

Thanks for the kind assistance!

Tom

GChambers
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t walgamuth
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06 Jan 2011 09:40 PM
That looks very cool G! Too bad it is in new Jersey and pickup only. If it were closer I would spring for the parts just to have some options. The shape of the cowl looks interesting.
t walgamuth
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08 Jan 2011 11:05 AM

I am thinking of ways to solve my fitment problem. I can get in and out satisfactorily now but once in the frame is so tight against my shoulders and upper arms I cannot turn the wheel more than 1/8 turn left or right. It looks like if I can get the steering wheel a little further away I could get a little more movement. Is there a kit available which would allow me to slide the wheel in or out? Nick has suggested removing the present seat and experimenting with that. My favorite machinist suggested pushing the frame tubs out with a hydraulic frame pusher. I looked and it looks like I could push them out 1/4 to 3/8" each side without running into problems getting the side panels on.

Comments and suggestions?

t walgamuth
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08 Jan 2011 11:07 AM
t walgamuth wrote:
That looks very cool G! Too bad it is in new Jersey and pickup only. If it were closer I would spring for the parts just to have some options. The shape of the cowl looks interesting.

I sent that seller a pm asking if he would consider putting it all on a pallet and shipping it to me.

Dick Rasmussen
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08 Jan 2011 12:00 PM
t walgamuth wrote:

I am thinking of ways to solve my fitment problem. I can get in and out satisfactorily now but once in the frame is so tight against my shoulders and upper arms I cannot turn the wheel more than 1/8 turn left or right. It looks like if I can get the steering wheel a little further away I could get a little more movement. Is there a kit available which would allow me to slide the wheel in or out? Nick has suggested removing the present seat and experimenting with that. My favorite machinist suggested pushing the frame tubs out with a hydraulic frame pusher. I looked and it looks like I could push them out 1/4 to 3/8" each side without running into problems getting the side panels on.

Comments and suggestions?

Tom,

My steering shaft telescopes. That is it has two tubes with one being smaller diameter. There is a clamp on the end of the larger tube and an additional bolt through both tubes. Don't get the wheel too close to the dash or you won't have finger room. Looking at the pics you posted that I downloaded the big red knob on the right may need to be relocated. It looks like your shaft is long enough to modify. I'll email some pics.

Even at 5'7" in my car it is critical to get my shoulders below the diagonal braces. From the one good seat pic of your car the seat certainly looks like it is holding you way above the floor. Great if you are road racing and have a real bead seat material to absorb impact but not needed for autocrossing. My seat is about 1/8 inch thick fiberglass directly on the floor pan. The seat is supplemented with a 1/2 thick or so insert behind my butt and back to push me forward a little which also lowers my shoulder.

Dick



t walgamuth
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08 Jan 2011 04:29 PM
t walgamuth wrote:
That looks very cool G! Too bad it is in new Jersey and pickup only. If it were closer I would spring for the parts just to have some options. The shape of the cowl looks interesting.

I sent the seller a question to see if he would ship to me.

t walgamuth
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08 Jan 2011 04:33 PM

I'll take a closer look at the steering column. I removed the diagonal shoulder braces which go from mid way on the side to the roll bar. I am going to pull the seat out today and see what happens.

Thanks Dick!

PCalhoun
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08 Jan 2011 04:46 PM

As Dick mentions your steering column should tele-scope within a limited range of travel. If not look into having a machinist build you a spacer for your steering wheel or build a new column, which does tele-scope, including new Apex joints. Your shoulders need to fit under the hoizontal and/or diagonal side bars. In a formula car fit your shoulders first, then the steering column and pedals to get comfortable. If you need a machinst Chicago Region member Kevin Taylor's shop KevTec is up in Highland off Rt 41.

It would be rare if you were able to fit into the car comfrortably w/ the POs seat unless you were very similair in size. Just plan on buying a two-part foam kit, some heavy-duty plastic bags, and pouring your own to fit your requirements. Clean it-up after it sets w/ sa Sureform file and sandpaper, plus a quick trip to Hobby Lobby for some spray adhesive and inexpensive thin fabric and in a few hours you'll fit in the car much better.

As to your previous inquiry about gears. I mentioned this in my CM intro post back around Thanksgiving, but Taylor Race Engineering (TRE) is about the only Hewland dealer stocking the integral first gear and is generally recognized as the gearbox experts. There are others out there such as Williams, J&amp;J, &amp; Averill plus many more doing rebuilds, but no one stocks more parts than TRE in TX.

t walgamuth
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08 Jan 2011 06:44 PM

Ok, it was very similar to yours, Dick. I moved the column forward to the next hole which was maybe 1.5" or so. Now I can get 1/4 turn off center each way! My elbows are hitting my ribcage. So tomorrow I will pull out the seat and see if I can get my butt down a bit more and the ribcage lower in relationship to the elbows.

My car shows signs of having been converted from the older style suspension to the push rod suspension it has now.

t walgamuth
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08 Jan 2011 06:48 PM

Oh, thanks Mr. Calhoun.

I have to pull my back cover at least and verify that I have the 10/31 diff.

My side tubes appear to be bent in about 1/2 to 3/8" on the sides for some reason. The tube comes straight along the footwell then bends in at the passenger compartment. There is a weld on the rs of the car so maybe it got wrecked on that side and they bent in the left to match it!?!

Thanks for the kind assistance!

barryott
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08 Jan 2011 08:00 PM

....and just to jump on the band wagon. Tom, you gotta make your own seat, it is one of the neatest things about owning a formula car :-) Take out the one that came with the car and start from there. It's so cool to "wear' a car, you feel *everything* the car is doing. The seat in my Reynard fit me so well that it was a little hard to breathe if I wore a sweatshirt :-) I used the two part foam method (from Pegasus) in the Reynard but the VD has enough room that I'm going to do a Bead Seat this time. There's a good, current thread on ApexSpeed if you go the Bead Seat route.

Is this fun or what!!!!

Barry

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