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Last Post 17 Apr 2017 11:25 PM by  tdeziel
Enclosed trailer help
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47CP
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Posts:2742


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23 Sep 2011 04:35 PM
Regarding winches....

I have used Superwinch in the past in my enclosed trailer. They work OK (BTW, a S1800 was plenty to drag any car in, including my 3000# CP car or Marcus' old ESP car) but are a $400 nut by the time you get the wireless, which is priceless.

On my new trailer, I got a Harbor Freight unit which quickly fulfilled its prophecy to become a hammer. It was a flaming POS from day one, noisy, slow, limited range on the wireless. Its one redeeming feature was the price of $59.

I have been tired of it for a while, but hadn;t made the extra $400 available in the race budget for a Superwinch/Remote setup. I stumbled across a place called MotoAlliance.com which makes/sells Viper winches. I got a 2500lb ATV unit with wireless for $189.

It is, by far, the best winch I have ever had. I highly recommend looking at this brand.

HTH,
DaveW
vreihen16
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23 Sep 2011 09:18 PM
PCalhoun wrote:

Use a Tekonsha P3 electirc brake controller, best there is out on the market and fairly priced. Can find them cheap on E-Bay/

I will respectfully disagree with this one recommendation. Tekonsha doesn't publish this in bold letters on the package, but their Prodigy P2 controller uses a tri-axis accelerometer whereas the P3 only has a single-axis accelerometer. Yes, the P3 has a color LCD display, multi-color LED backlighting, and can tell you everything short of the surface temperature on the back side of the moon, but it can't tell your trailer how much braking force to apply nearly as well as the Prodigy P2 because of the crippled accelerometer used in the P3. Anyone who ever used a GEEZ G-Cube (dual-axis accelerometers) knows how its accuracy was hurt by body roll, and every run had to be manually tweaked by eyeball to compensate for it. I can tell you first hand how cranky the P3 gets about being installed level (which mine is not due to not having a flat spot anywhere in my truck within reach of the driver's seat). I can also tell you first hand about the feeling you get when someone cuts you off driving through New York City hauling a 24' trailer and you don't know whether the P3 is going to lock the trailer brakes or pretend that you don't have trailer brakes at all. It seems like a random crap shoot every time I step on the brake pedal!

Although I have never used any other brake controller, I regret purchasing my P3 based on fanatical user feedback in another forum. In retrospect, I would have either gone with the Prodigy P2 , or the Hayes G2 that I didn't know about until after purchasing the P3. Both of those are tri-axis. and the Hayes G2 has an LCD display that can display more than I'll ever need to know. Since I have another four round-trip tows through NYC before the season ends, I should probably break down (no pun intended) and order a Hayes G2 this weekend and see if there's a difference.....


vreihen16
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23 Sep 2011 10:18 PM
Jeff Jacobs wrote:

Would Peter C or anyone else be able to provide some guidance on negotiating trailer pricing? Obviously for used trailers from a private party you can haggle based on what a similarly equipped trailer lists for new, but for new trailers, when the trailer dealership quotes you a price, any rule of thumb as to what their margin likely is or how much negotiating room is built in?

I will share my secret. The dealer where I bought my trailer was also a distributor for several brands, and accidentally posted their wholesale inventory price sheet on their web site one day! Made the entire month that I spent before that doing an insane amount of online research about the trailer industry into a waste of time, well almost.

Although there are scattered factories all over the country, the two hotbeds of cargo trailer manufacturing are in south Georgia and Elkhart, Indiana. There are plenty of no-name and big manufacturers based out of these two areas, and the wholesale supply chains seem to be geared towards supplying axles, sheet metal, and stuff to these factories by having local operations there as well. If you go on eBay or racingjunk.com, you'll see all kinds of no-name trailers being sold with factory pickups at either one of these hubs. South Georgia seems to have the cheaper trailers, but Elkhart seems at least from pictures to make a little bit nicer trailers. If you're lucky enough to live near one of these places, you can shop for bargains galore. The factories seem to be clubbing each other over the head to make a sale in the bad economy, and it's a buyer's market for sure.

There are three expenses in any trailer purchase. First is the cost of the base trailer materials and labor. Look at the no-name bargain trailers on eBay or racingjunk.com to get an idea of the base cost. The second expense is in upgraded materials. Want a one-piece roof. Add $$$. 5,200-pound Dexter torsion axles with radial tires? Add $$$$. 16" on-center wall/floor tubing? Add $$. 0.040" walls? More $$. Many online web sites list the add-on costs, so you can figure it out. By the time that I got done, my planned $4,000 base trailer climbed to $7,000 with material upgrades. The third expense is delivery. My napkin math is at least $1.50 per loaded mile to deliver the trailer. From Elkhart to the northeast, figure at least a grand. If you want a name brand, mark up a little more for their stickers and add it up. If you wanted to take the chance of buying a trailer online sight unseen, this is how much it will cost. See how close your local trailer dealer can get to that price, and you'll have to make the judgement about whether it is worth the price difference (if there is one) to have a local dealer for support/repairs and be able to touch/see/tow what you're planning to buy.

Long story short, I was able to napkin math the prices on the leaked wholesale price list within about $300 on steel trailers by doing this. That was when I noticed that they had a leftover all aluminum Featherlite on the sheet priced lower than my ideal steel trailer, and it followed me home that night for $100 over the price on the leaked wholesale sheet.

I have to include a disclaimer that I have never worked in the trailer industry, and don't guarantee that everything that I have written or speculated is 100% correct.....


car39
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Posts:7


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28 Sep 2011 09:00 AM
The bail out door on the driver's side is worth it's weight in gold. Makes it easy to get in when the trailer is buried in a snow drift (like last year) you get good cross ventilation when parked, and easy in and out of the car. I have a 20 foot CarMate to tow my Miata. If I wasn't a pack rat, it would have plenty of space. Stuff expands to fit the available space.
rickmartinez
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12 Oct 2011 04:26 PM
I'm also in the market for an enclosed trailer and leaning toward a new Pace (w/ the SCCA rebate). According to the internets, it looks like Pace American has entered an involuntary Chapter 7 bankruptcy? Any opinions on whether this good or bad for my upcoming purchase?
lowside67
Basic Member
Basic Member
Posts:273


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12 Oct 2011 05:00 PM
In my opinion, that is probably good for you at the buying end, and poor at the service/warranty end... personally I would probably avoid, too many uncertainties.
vreihen16
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20 Oct 2011 07:06 AM
rickmartinez wrote:
I'm also in the market for an enclosed trailer and leaning toward a new Pace (w/ the SCCA rebate). According to the internets, it looks like Pace American has entered an involuntary Chapter 7 bankruptcy? Any opinions on whether this good or bad for my upcoming purchase?

I read a post in another forum from a trailer delivery driver the other day that Pace has shut down production, and is down to a handful of office people while desperately waiting for a financial lifeline to bail them out. He also noted that the original founder of Pace went on to form Bravo Trailers, http://bravotrailers.com/ .....


tdeziel
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Posts:1


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17 Apr 2017 11:25 PM

I have a 2001 pace american cargo trailer (model #CS612SA). The front cap has cracked in a few places. I have been totally unable to find a replacement part because the company went out of business in 2005 (or something like that). Any idea how I could find a replacement or have one made? Thanks

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