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Last Post 04 Dec 2011 04:23 PM by  Dick Rasmussen
12' vs 14' for formula car
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Dick Rasmussen
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Posts:931


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30 Nov 2011 01:18 PM

I would love to be able to build a trailer like Barry's or to put a snowmobile type cover on my current trailer. I don't have the fab skills/tools to do it myself and haven't had any luck finding someone locally to build one. Montrose will build an aluminum version but like I said, roughly $10K. Lots of engineering considerations especially if the current open trailer doesn't have the structure to carry any more weight. Steel and even aluminum panels and framework get heavy fast. Any volunteers? I'm in Raleigh.


In general if the tow vehicle is "decent" (mine is too limited) a standard 7 X 14 or 7 X 16 enclosed trailer with drop axles and other normal options seems to be the most cost effective, available, and saleable solution. Plus you can carry other stuff (like most racers need) and most people can stand in them with little or no bending needed. For many CM drivers, NO bending (grin).

Keep in mind, however, that for a normal 1 or 2 day autocross there is little or no time to actually use "stuff" that would be carried in the trailer and much lower likelihood that "stuff" will be needed. The big thing with us is security at motels, etc. However, lots of enclosed race trailers get stolen from motels that happen to have cars inside. I cover our car with a cheap blue tarp at motels. Keep rain and prying eyes out and makes it look "cheap" and not worth stealing (so far).

TeamFRD
New Member
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Posts:59


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30 Nov 2011 07:03 PM

My VD RF88 came with a nifty trailer - 6.5 by 14 with a 'homemade' (by an engineering/fabricator type) clam shell cover.http://flic.kr/p/8ExyvK

I have just about 2 feet free space behind the car for some storage bins. So a 12 footer would work if you can place the axle where you need it to get tongue weight.

Consider ramps. This pic shows my ramps. http://flic.kr/p/abDvBE Angle up, then 48" of horizontal so the low ground clearance race car does not scrap. This allows me to leave the trailer level. And with only the horizontal sections, it makes for a nice psuedo lift to work on the back end.

Sorry to hear that RF88 left Florida. I did not get to see it. Stay in touch. Let's figure these things out to together.



mwood
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Posts:2279


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30 Nov 2011 10:39 PM

The RF88 hasn't actually left FL...still working out the details of shipping, unfortunately.

I'm still flip flopping between a small open trailer and a larger enclosed. The small trailer is nice for local stuff, easy to tow, can fit in one of our garage slots and requires no change in our vehicle line up. But, I like the enclosed trailer idea. I'd get one big enough to provide space not only to store the car full time, but also carry all the stuff like a pop up, tool box, bike (actually, I'd like to be able to fit one of my motorcycles) etc. Downside is it takes up driveway space, the neighbors will probably complain, and I'd have to rearrange the vehicle line up...sell a car, buy a truck.

Good news is that I have time to think about it and see what comes up for sale. I'm not going to complain...having a choice is not having a problem!!

mwood
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Posts:2279


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04 Dec 2011 02:25 PM

Ordered a trailer yesterday (car should be here by the 16th)

6.5X12 utility trailer (with rails, which I can use both to mount a tire rack and also allow a 3/4" drop in the deck height, due to use of angle instead of box section steel).

4" drop axle and 14" wheels brings deck height down to 13.5".

Weight is right at 1000#. Once I added in a below deck spare/mount, a ramp lip, the drop axle and tax/license it was right at $1700.

Ordered up (4) 5' sections of E-track and ratchet wheel baskets to keep the car in place, but am still noodling on ramps. I'm looking at various folding aluminum ramps designed for ATV's e.g. http://www.discountramps.com/dual-atv-ramps.htm

The thought is that I could easily take some 5"X12" square tubing lengths and make transport "sleeves" for the folding ramps that I could either weld in under the deck or (maybe better) stack vertically against the deck/rail on the tongue. If I go the vertical route, that provides the first couple of feet of a rock guard on the front...once I add the tire rack (which will have either sheet or diamond plate on the front), the car will be pretty well protected on the road.

Of course, I could also just buy a couple of 8' 2X8's ;-)

Dick Rasmussen
Advanced Member
Advanced Member
Posts:931


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04 Dec 2011 04:23 PM
Mike,

I sent you an ApexSpeed PM asking for your email so that I can send you pics of my ramp "travel" setup.

FYI: My car is secured using strong tie-down ratchets and axle straps to D rings welded to the deck. The front D rings are in front of the front tires and the rear D rings in the rear. My deck is 13 feet long. The front axle straps wrap around the camber adjusters at the upright. The rear is secured to a cross member bolted to the underside of the transaxle that serves as the mounting point for the rear track rods and the rear leg of the a-arms. The rear tie-downs crisscross resulting in about a 45 degree angle for the straps. I've towed over 80K miles this way. I've never towed with the film around the tires that guys are using now do I don't know whether the car would slide sideways on the sheet metal deck without the race rubber "traction.

Dick

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