The car is in perfect running condition and ready to hit the track right away. Not a single thing would need to be done to go on the track tomorrow. No shaking, no electric gizmos problem, everything just works.
My car is a fresh build without the headache and time wasting, buy it today, track it tomorrow ;)
Spare yourself the time, frustration and cost of building one yourself !
Here are some more details:
- 2013 FRS Raven black (black metallic)
- 13,500 miles
- engine, transmission are stock
-- XXR 17x9 rims with BFG R1 245-40x17 ($1500)
-- ARP long wheel studs on all 4 wheels ($160)
-- Muteki 32905B SR Series Black 12mm x 1.25mm SR48 Open End Lug Nut Set ($50)
-- Wheel Hub Centric Plastic Rings
-- AP RACING big brake kit with braided brake lines ($2,000)
-- Carbotech XP10 brake pads front / rear (brand new) ($400)
-- APR brake ducts with carbon fiber bump inserts and rotor adapter ($600)
-- Perrin brake master cylinder brace ($50)
-- RaceCompEngineering Tarmac2 2 way coil overs with 500lbs springs installed and 400lbs spring available ($2500)
-- Ground control front camber plates with aluminum truss - anodized grey ($800)
-- RaceSeng rear camber plate with 2" drop ($300)
-- Whiteline differential mount bushing insert KDT925
-- Whiteline crossmember bushing insert KDT922
-- Whiteline gearbox bushing KDT926
-- mishimoto oil cooler ($500)
-- mishimoto radiator ($350)
-- HKS magnetic drain plug
-- Open Flash Tablet (running latest ECU firmware) ($400)
-- perrin inlet hose (purely esthetic) ($100)
-- Full roll cage with daytona bars on both sides - stamped by SCCA last year. NASA compliant build by WOT-TECH. ($3500)
-- Fire extinguisher (halon) with roll bar brackets. ($150)
-- Cage foam pads on driver side
-- momo daytona seat with 6 point harness Scrotch ($1100)
-- momo steering wheel - mod 07 350mm ($250)
-- steering hub with NRG quick release kit 'black gen 2.5' ($100)
-- Aluminum tow hooks front and back ($100)
-- Aero underbody panels (Japanese OEM). ($200)
-- interior fully resprayed Raven black same as outside color. ($1800)
-- Door panel and dash trims cut to fit with the roll cage
-- custom aluminum floor pan on driver side.
-- RAM mount for rollbar and iphone 6 cradle
-- GSpeed gas pedal relocation kit (higher and to the left for perfect heel and toe) ($200)
-- Air Horn 130dB for the hard to get point-by ! ($100)
-- GPS transmitter hidden ($100)
-- Electrical interior harness trimmed to removed all Airbag and Radio wires.
SPARES coming with the car:
-- OEM Stock suspension
-- Front OEM stock brake calipers
-- Front Rotors DBA 5000 series T3 2 -pieces
-- Front Carbotech XP12 Pads to fit OEM caliper (brand new)
-- Rear Carbotech XP12 Pads (new in box)
-- oil pressure sensor unit AEM 150psi, with oil galley plug to match
-- perrin rear shifter bushin (new)
-- 2 fully gutted doors with home made set of Lexan windows, much lighter but not very convenient.
-- AC pulley only (no compressor behind it) in case you want to go without the AC.
-- Enkei RPF1 17x8 +45 with "rain tires" yokohama ad08 225x17 ($1500)
-- Toyota obd2 cable with tech stream software ($100)
If interested I have an open aluminum trailer (Trailex) for sale at additional cost. I am getting out of he hobby for now.
If you count only the cost I have in parenthesis that is $18,910 alone. Add 100 hours of labor AND the cost of the car and you will have an idea how much it cost to build this car. Believe me when I say that it took more than 100 hours to set it up like it is now, and many small bit$ not listed add up quickly.
The car is located in Fort Lauderdale. Title on hand. It is a salvage title. I bought the car from Copart with a minor accident front impact. I have photo of the car before the build started, showing the damages and build process.
The car is NOT tagged and NOT street legal
If you are not local, I will ask for the funds to clear before shipping can be arranged.
What I would do if I were to keep it: add custom full body wrap or re-spray the front end that is still in primer color. I would also go ahead and add a nice data acquisition system along with a cool shirt system. That's about it. Keep the engine stock and you'll avoid any trouble and down time at the track.
Here is a list of things to consider:
-- dashboard open at the passenger airbag location, could be patched easily or replaced, dash comes out in 10 minutes.
-- center console plastic scratched
-- 'side skirt' under driver door has dent. only cosmetic not structural
-- fender and hood are not painted
-- door have small dings and scratch, 7/10 condition
-- front turn signal not connected, makes it easier to remove the bumper. rear one work
-- windshield washer container removed, I have all the parts stored if needed.
-- heater core is not installed. I have the part and could be added easily but knee bar from roll cage would have to be removed. AC and blowing fan are working with dash controls.
I have added more images in the following dropbox folder:
The car has 12,850 miles and was never raced. I only attended 8 HPDE track day event since the build :( I have a SCCA log book and cage is stamped, and will pass NASA inspection. I also have personal logs of every track days.
The car is fully functional, and ready to go. ABS, traction control and all electronics are fully working. Everything is functional except all airbag related sensors and radio/speaker system. Even the keyfob and remote trunk opening works. Electric windows and mirror also work. I also have a spare set of gutted doors in case you want to loose some weight, but not ideal for storage. The current configuration of the car has the full door with windows.
While you want to disable all traction control at the track, beware of brz/frs without ABS/Traction control. ABS prevents flatspotting which happens very easily once disabled. Those who disable ABS are forced to add brake bias control to avoid intempestive locking.
AC is working but heater core was removed as it would not clear the roll cage knee bar. For those in colder climate, it can be retrofitted but will require some trimmimng. Or you can cut the knee bar from the cage and then the whole HVAC assembly will fit without problem.
The Scion FR-S is ton of fun around the track and to give you an idea I run around homestead in 1:49 in this car, while I was doing 1:46 with my 2003 Porsche 911. It is fast enough, maintenance and parts are super cheap and it is a fully caged cars, so you enjoy maximum safety in case something were to happen.
I decided to build this car after someone spilled its complete engine oil in turn 10 at Homestead. Luckily I saw the yellow flags and slowed down enough to avoid a bad crash. But after realizing something like that can happen at any time, I decided to go full cage.
The car is very easy to drive, and provide more feedback than my Porsche ! Of course the power is limited but if you want to master smooth and timely driver inputs that's the car for you. The RaceCompengineering Tarmac 2 suspensions coupled with the camber plate offer a completely different ride. I am now able to take corners flat out with total confidence.
I have tried my best to keep it looking as nice as possible inside out. The interior plastic have been trimmed to fit nicely around the roll cage. The roll cage was painted same as exterior color (metallic black called Scion raven black). At the same time the interior was fully resprayed as well to get a nice uniform finished paint inside the car. The wiring harness was trimmed to remove all airbags, interior lights and radio wires which polluted the interior. Everything was taped/clipped back as it was originally. I took the opportunity to remove the dash bar, which has a tendency to rust and powder-coated it gloss black. You can't see it unless you remove the dash... But that's how I like it :)
The front fenders, bumper and hood are not painted, they are still in their OEM primed color which is flat black for the fender and 'plastic black' for the bumper. The exterior paint behind the rear door is spotless. Doors have little scratches Interior plastic have small scratch from the build, but if your OCD kicks in, a center plastic console cost $50 from the dealer, that gives you an idea of how cheap these cars are to maintain.
The car is currently on ebay here :
Best way to contact me is through the ebay listing, send me a message there as I don't come to the SCCA forum too often.