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Last Post 28 Nov 2017 01:06 PM by  mrgonzo
EMod MGB-GT build thread
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fd_racer
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31 Oct 2010 12:56 PM

Thanks.... Yeah there is still a TON of hand work lol.... Some people think it is better to have a had made guitar (100% hand made) I explain it like this... Would you buy hand made pistons and rods, well not me CnC all the way (guitars are no different)... Most companies out there are still hand making them but machine finishing and assembling them (that is why most of the hardware is screwed in crooked lol....

Anyway if any of you SCCA members are in the San Diego area or are vacationing out this way I would be more than happy to give you a factory tour (we don't give tours) myself. We have a 86,000 sq foot plant in San Diego. A few other SCCA guys have been through it for a tour.

Now back to the garage to try and make this car fast...

Kiesel

jdchristianson
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Posts:416


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31 Oct 2010 01:58 PM
fd_racer wrote:

Have you no mercy??? How about you just leave it alone for a year?

Jeff Christianson

EM filler

Now back to the garage to try and make this car fast...

Kiesel

fd_racer
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31 Oct 2010 10:23 PM

LOL your funny man [:D]

Just trying my best to keep the car fresh and make sure we stay on our game..

Kiesel

loosecannon
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01 Nov 2010 12:23 PM
fd_racer wrote:

LOL your funny man [:D]

Just trying my best to keep the car fresh and make sure we stay on our game..

Kiesel

Hey Jeff, on your lower rear suspension links, are they closer together at the axle or the chassis?

loosecannon
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Posts:872


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01 Nov 2010 03:14 PM
Built a rotissiere out of two 1000lb engine stands so that I could paint and work on the bottom of the car(and any future race cars ;) ) I'm not comfortable flipping it with the engine still in the car so you'll have to wait to see it upside down.
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loosecannon
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02 Nov 2010 11:36 AM
Tried bead rolling aluminium for the first time today, it stiffens up floppy sheet pretty nicely. Also filled holes in the bodywork left after removing the door locks, windshield wiper and trim.
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Bullitt2954
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Posts:673


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03 Nov 2010 08:18 AM

Nice, Yo!

Do you have a handheld, or bench-mounted roller? Cheapie-Harbor-Freight-typee, or something a lot more expensive?

TEH EDITS:

Y'know, I think I may have an idea of what Ima do with my Roadrunner: after the !#$#@#$%^%$#@$#$@#$ Thieves stripped it to a shell, it's either Crush it, or somethin' like this (it'll cost about ten-times what you're spending here on the MG to bring it back to "stock")

loosecannon
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03 Nov 2010 11:33 AM
Bullitt2954 wrote:

Nice, Yo!

Do you have a handheld, or bench-mounted roller? Cheapie-Harbor-Freight-typee, or something a lot more expensive?

Bench mounted, $299 at Princess Auto

loosecannon
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03 Nov 2010 03:30 PM
Welded a panel where the sunroof used to be. It looks terrible because I couldn't get the contour of the panel to match the roof. I wish I had gone with my first thought which was to put a hinged aluminum flap over it and call it an escape hatch.
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fd_racer
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03 Nov 2010 09:12 PM
they are closer at the chassis
loosecannon
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04 Nov 2010 12:44 PM
I removed the engine and front suspension and put the car on the spinner so I could weld up the motor mounts and cut out some excess metal from the old firewall. I also checked chassis stiffness by putting the car on stands at the 4 corners and jacking up one side (this was still when the engine and suspension were in). I could raise the front corner less than 1/4 inch before the back end would lift off the stand, is that good or bad?
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Claff93STS
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Posts:59


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04 Nov 2010 01:34 PM

loosecannon wrote:
Welded a panel where the sunroof used to be. It looks terrible because I couldn't get the contour of the panel to match the roof.

Nothing that two quarts of Bondo can't fix (grin)

Bullitt2954
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04 Nov 2010 03:04 PM
Claff93STS wrote:

loosecannon wrote:
Welded a panel where the sunroof used to be. It looks terrible because I couldn't get the contour of the panel to match the roof.

Nothing that two quarts of Bondo can't fix (grin)

A car this old? Nah - it wants LEAD filler......

("buttering" is a lost art, yo!)

loosecannon
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05 Nov 2010 11:54 AM
Probably meaningless techno-geek stuff but I did some analysis today. I checked the torsional stiffness (Thank you Peter Raymond) by putting the car on 3 stands (2 rear, 1 front corner) and hung a 100 lb weight 4 feet from the single stand and measured the amount of flex in the frame. Without the front crossmember bolted in=800 lb/ft per degree stiffness. With crossmember bolted in=1600 lb/ft per degree of twist. I still have another crossmember that gets bolted in so that number could go up. Also, I plotted the path of one of the rear wheels as it goes through it's projected travel and below is a pic of the passenger side path. Basically, as the suspension compresses(such as a hard left turn) the wheel moves up and slightly forward, causing the rear to steer in the same direction as the front-which is good for neutral handling. This is somewhat offset by the drivers side rear wheel drooping and also moving forward but there isn't as much weight on that tire so the outside one is the important one.
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loosecannon
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10 Nov 2010 10:26 AM
I got my rear tires mounted on wheels, the picture doesn't do the width justice, they are definitely what Jeff Kiesel calls "big boy tires".
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47CP
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10 Nov 2010 10:40 AM

Those are pretty wide, what size are they and how tall?

I use the GT-1 27 or 28x14 on the rear and they are cartoonish. :)

On your plot of the rear suspension, how much distance is the axle steering in that arc? I don't like much roll steer myself, but my point is that that arc doesn't look very bad for total movement considering how short the arms are relatively.

Keep up the good work!

DaveW

loosecannon
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10 Nov 2010 01:18 PM
47CP wrote:

Those are pretty wide, what size are they and how tall?

I use the GT-1 27 or 28x14 on the rear and they are cartoonish. :)

On your plot of the rear suspension, how much distance is the axle steering in that arc? I don't like much roll steer myself, but my point is that that arc doesn't look very bad for total movement considering how short the arms are relatively.

Keep up the good work!

DaveW

The tires are 23.5x14-15 with R25B compound. I got them on a whim but maybe they weren't the best choice. To run them I will have to cut the fender and the proper size to get in the front would be 12.5 inches wide but Hoosier doesn't make one that size AND there's no good way to run anything wider than 10" in the front. Ideally, I should run 11 wide in the back and 10" wide in the front, then my tires would heat up evenly but then the question becomes: is that enough tire to win? As for the arc of the rear axle, if I put a straight edge from the top of the travel(2" from ride height) to the bottom (1.5" from ride height) and measure the arc, it comes out to .090".

47CP
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10 Nov 2010 01:46 PM

Assuming you can keep them on the ground across the tread, I have typically found that more tire is betterer. :) But, this is coming from a guy running 25x13's on the front and 28x14's on the rear, so I may have a defective gene or something. :)

What size is Keisel running? He doesn't seem to have trouble heating them up and will be a little lighter than you. He has also talked about the Atlantic tires liking a 40/60 FR weight bias, not sure how close to that you will come or if that is a Goodyear only thing.

I would think that .090" arc is very minimal, which kind of makes me wonder about why I spent so much time fitting the long trailing arms on my car. :)

DaveW

loosecannon
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Posts:872


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10 Nov 2010 02:42 PM
47CP wrote:

Assuming you can keep them on the ground across the tread, I have typically found that more tire is betterer. :) But, this is coming from a guy running 25x13's on the front and 28x14's on the rear, so I may have a defective gene or something. :)

What size is Keisel running? He doesn't seem to have trouble heating them up and will be a little lighter than you. He has also talked about the Atlantic tires liking a 40/60 FR weight bias, not sure how close to that you will come or if that is a Goodyear only thing.

I would think that .090" arc is very minimal, which kind of makes me wonder about why I spent so much time fitting the long trailing arms on my car. :)

DaveW

I don't know exactly what I'm going to do. I don't really want to cut the body and hang the tires out the side and getting fenders to cover them is too much $$$. I took a look at Jeff's at Nats and can't recall what they are but I think 10"/14", which is what I will have (and mine are Formula Atlantic tires). My car will have 55% weight on the back tires, which is pretty good considering the lump I have for an engine. I agree that .090" was small, that's why I didn't tear it apart and re-do it. I took a look at Fred Puhn's book "How to make your car handle" and used his method to calculate roll centre and from what I can tell, my rear roll centre is somewhere between 4-5" high.

bruecksteve
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Posts:151


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10 Nov 2010 02:42 PM
I think Keisel WAS running a 13" wide tire on a 14" rim. Or the other way around but I think I'm correct.
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