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Last Post 16 Oct 2015 02:52 PM by  whitecivic
CM Cars For Sale...
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t walgamuth
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Posts:680


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23 Nov 2010 09:07 PM

I came to an agreement on the Reynard today and sent a deposit. Within the next two weeks we will get together and unless the car is not as represented, which I doubt, I will be bringing it home!

It will have to be painted in my traditional black and orange scheme!;)

t walgamuth
Advanced Member
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Posts:680


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23 Nov 2010 09:09 PM
I'll be needing some appropriate autocross gears, so if anybody has a line on some please let me know!
PCalhoun
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Posts:149


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23 Nov 2010 09:54 PM
t walgamuth wrote:

I came to an agreement on the Reynard today and sent a deposit. Within the next two weeks we will get together and unless the car is not as represented, which I doubt, I will be bringing it home!

It will have to be painted in my traditional black and orange scheme!;)

Congrats and welcome to CM! For the price you cannot go wrong, even after you throw a little money into it a new car would have more depreciation just driving off the lot.

Definetly make a post on ApexSpeed looking for Hewland Mk 9 auto-x gears. The fixed layshaft 1st will be the toughest to find w/out buying new from Taylor Race Engineering (TRE).

BTW- what region are you out of?

Keep 'em comin' boys CM is on a roll to get our car count up in 2011!

PS- You'll want to give a lot of consideration to painting an older fiberglass racecar black. I hope your painter is good, because there is going to be alot of prep work to make it look good.

Jim G
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23 Nov 2010 10:01 PM

New gears are expensive, especially the fixed layshaft first gear that you'll need. You can get them from Taylor Race at www.taylor-race.com and other outfits. For the fixed layshaft first gear 12:38 is kind of low but OK; 13:37 and 13:38 are very good imo; I also used a 14:36 for awhile and it was OK but not as good as the 13's. You can look for used gears on apexspeed.com and I'm sure elsewhere. I've seen some on ebay even.

There's a nice gear ratio/speed graph generator at http://www.ratiochart.com/index.cfm ... on the first page pick "mk 8/9 4 speed with mk 8 ratios". On next page set tire height at 22.6 inches, your final drive is likely 9/31. Max revs are between 6800 and 7000 depending on how hard you want to push the engine. Next page hit "generate chart with selected gears and pick what you want then generate the graph. Very neat tool.

Good luck and welcome!

Edit: beat me to it Pete.


adhowe70
Advanced Member
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Posts:770


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23 Nov 2010 10:16 PM
t walgamuth wrote:

I came to an agreement on the Reynard today and sent a deposit. Within the next two weeks we will get together and unless the car is not as represented, which I doubt, I will be bringing it home!

It will have to be painted in my traditional black and orange scheme!;)

Wahoo! And welcome.

Andy

Dick Rasmussen
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Posts:931


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23 Nov 2010 10:19 PM

Tom,

Great news! Too bad you apparently live in Indiana (for me but not for you given the great sites and competition near you).

Don't forget to determine the ring and pinion ratio before buying gears.

If you have the common 9:31 a 13:38 or 13:37 is good for about 45 or 46 mph at 6800 rpm and that definitely seems to be the first gear speed of choice. A 10:31 r&p will need a 12:38 for 45/46 mph.

That said, at first you can "get by" with a "short" slide on gear for first if you don't side step the clutch and don't have really sticky tires yet or high grip sites. Better check the clutch first though since the small racing clutches don't like slipping.

Regarding using ratiochart, a short cut for comparing ratios is to tell the calculator you have a 5 speed so that you can compare two gears and hold the other 3 constant. The tool is neat but a "little" crotchety going back and forth. Double check the numbers/assumption each time so you don't end up with bad data by mistake (ask me how I know) [:)]

Dick

t walgamuth
Advanced Member
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Posts:680


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24 Nov 2010 06:04 AM

Wow! Thanks for all the info! I am in Lafayette, so Grissom is considered my "home" course, though I liked our old and lamented 16th st. speedway course probably best. I am pretty pumped about gettting it ready to run!

It is set up to run only 6500 RPM due to the rules his club had, so I probably will pull the head and put in stiffer valve springs so if I over rev it a bit it will not hurt anything.

Tom

Dick Rasmussen
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Posts:931


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24 Nov 2010 07:42 AM
t walgamuth wrote:

It is set up to run only 6500 RPM due to the rules his club had, so I probably will pull the head and put in stiffer valve springs so if I over rev it a bit it will not hurt anything.

Tom

FYI,

According to my Stack tach and the MSD rev limiter I regularly rev mine to 6800-7000 and tend to "sit" on the limiter for a second or two at the end of straights. This past summer I shifted to first instead of third [:$] and the tell tale read 7800 rpm. Engine ran just fine with valves still in adjustment and leakdown OK which means no bent valves, etc. The engine is now apart for the first time since late 1997 (due to "layoff" years only the equivalent of about 5 seasons in the 13 years). Engine builder says engine is fine with minimal wear on bearings and valve guides. i.e. due for freshening but not overdue. Oil has been Mobil 1 20W-50 (before the zinc/zddp reduction).

Dick

CM85

PCalhoun
Basic Member
Basic Member
Posts:149


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24 Nov 2010 08:38 AM

t walgamuth wrote:
It is set up to run only 6500 RPM due to the rules his club had, so I probably will pull the head and put in stiffer valve springs so if I over rev it a bit it will not hurt anything

He most likely just has a 6500 rev limiter or rev limiting rotor in it, no big deal. The car from the pictures also has a gearbox bumper for FRRC, which can be removed in SCCA.

You will also want to download a copy of the SCCA Club Racing GCR so you have the FF rules handy. The motor in your car is advertised as pro-built by MWE in 2009. I would not do anything without talking to MWE (though I know Wenz has left to open up a new shop in GA), as they are a well known shop on the east coast and I don't believe a stiffer spring will have any benefit when you are only talking 300-500 rpm max. And you are talking about RPM spikes not constant loading like a long-straight road racing..

Drive the car, develop it, and enjoy it...

Locked
Basic Member
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Posts:493


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24 Nov 2010 10:26 AM

PCalhoun wrote:
PS- You'll want to give a lot of consideration to painting an older fiberglass racecar black. I hope your painter is good, because there is going to be alot of prep work to make it look good.

The truth in this statement is sickening. Ask me how I know. [:P]

PCalhoun wrote:
Drive the car, develop it, and enjoy it...

^^ This ^^

Other than gears, and seating position I'd put it on course to know what you have.

A 6500 rev limit would probably be a good safety net as you get comfortable with the car. You'll learn the sound of the motor and when you need to grab the next gear. These motors make enough torque and the clutchless shifts are so fast that you don't need to rev them to 7k. The dulon has no shift light, or limiter. Yet, Mark and I would still state "I hit the limiter in 3rd just before the sweeper." If one of us made that comment it really meant we grabbed 4th. At the beginning of the year I was nervous about not up shifting when I should. Surprisingly I learned the sound quickly.

Dick Rasmussen
Advanced Member
Advanced Member
Posts:931


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24 Nov 2010 11:10 AM

Locked wrote:
These motors make enough torque and the clutchless shifts are so fast that you don't need to rev them to 7k.

True unless you are a total klutz at shifting even with the clutch. See my post above about shifting UP to 1st.[:$]

More seriously, would shifting without the clutch have kept the rev difference from allowing the dog ring for 1st to even engage shifting at high revs from 2nd?

Even though I'm an "old dog" I would still like to learn to confidently shift without the clutch and to use 2 gears instead of trying to make a tall second "do". I can afford to buy dog rings more often if that is the major "risk".

Thanks,

Dick

GChambers
Veteran Member
Veteran Member
Posts:1928


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24 Nov 2010 02:46 PM
Locked wrote:

PCalhoun wrote:
PS- You'll want to give a lot of consideration to painting an older fiberglass racecar black. I hope your painter is good, because there is going to be alot of prep work to make it look good.

The truth in this statement is sickening. Ask me how I know. [:P]

PCalhoun wrote:
Drive the car, develop it, and enjoy it...

^^ This ^^

Other than gears, and seating position I'd put it on course to know what you have.

Yep, this right here. Other than getting my car in good operating condition, I don't plan on doing anything to it until I can get it out onto the course and get a good feel for it.

Edit: BTW, that's 5 CM cars in the Indy region now. [:D]

t walgamuth
Advanced Member
Advanced Member
Posts:680


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24 Nov 2010 03:50 PM

And ten drivers?

I think Jimmy will be co driving with me next year.

After talking with the PO who is an Engineer I have a really good feeling that the car has been taken care of pretty well.

Tom

Clemens
Basic Member
Basic Member
Posts:308


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24 Nov 2010 06:32 PM

Cool! Congrats, Tom.

This modified thing must be contageous. Indy Region added three CM cars, one FM car, and one AM car over the past few weeks, assuming this deal goes through. I still can't believe it. And I lost count when looking at all the existing BM, DM, and EM cars we already have...

Clemens

barryott
New Member
New Member
Posts:63


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24 Nov 2010 07:29 PM
Dick Rasmussen wrote:

Locked wrote:
These motors make enough torque and the clutchless shifts are so fast that you don't need to rev them to 7k.

True unless you are a total klutz at shifting even with the clutch. See my post above about shifting UP to 1st.[:$]

More seriously, would shifting without the clutch have kept the rev difference from allowing the dog ring for 1st to even engage shifting at high revs from 2nd?

Even though I'm an "old dog" I would still like to learn to confidently shift without the clutch and to use 2 gears instead of trying to make a tall second "do". I can afford to buy dog rings more often if that is the major "risk".

Thanks,

Dick

I did the 2-1 "upshift" once too, I wasn't using the clutch, so I think the answer to your question is "probably not". For all you guys that are new to CM and new to a Hewland, go to their site and read how they recommend to shift......please. Clutchless is recommended! Basically, all the actions you've been doing in your synchro'd transmission still apply, only without the clutch, it's just the timing of the actions that change. It's easy, and it sounds sooooo cool!

Barry

t walgamuth
Advanced Member
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Posts:680


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24 Nov 2010 07:31 PM
Thanks Clemens!
t walgamuth
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Posts:680


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24 Nov 2010 07:32 PM

Easy for you to say!

your car is a stunning red!;)

pru
Basic Member
Basic Member
Posts:151


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24 Nov 2010 09:20 PM
Nice Avatar! Welcome to the class!
t walgamuth
Advanced Member
Advanced Member
Posts:680


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24 Nov 2010 09:56 PM

Thanks!

That is the PO (at present present owner, heh!) running last year on an eastern road course. It seems as if running on a road course so recently is a pretty decent indication taht the car is fairly sound. He says it will outbrake even the newest FF.;)

Dick Rasmussen
Advanced Member
Advanced Member
Posts:931


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24 Nov 2010 11:39 PM

Tom,

Check it all in any case. Two reasons: To enjoy your purchase and to start learning how it is all put together.[:D]

Oh, and definately use those great brakes a lot. Your competitors will thank you.[:P]

Dick

CM85

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